Noob question thread! πŸ˜€ ask your questions here!


Will the phase or power wires get hot enough to damage the BMS? 80A in and 2x 65A at 12s


If they are 12AWG or bigger and silicone-insulated, they should not get hot enough to damage it, no. However you don’t want those rubbing together under vibration so you should put fishpaper between them


What if it’s only 14awg? And is kapton tape not enough?


For your setup running 12 gauge wires shouldn’t be big a problem. They might get toasty after climbing some hills but should be good. If they get too hot, like that you can’t hold your fingers on them, then it’s time to change them to 10 awg. One other restriction/problem could be the connector. From what I see that looks like an XT-60 and aren’t rated for high amps. Consider using Xt-90 for your main connection such as from the Vesc to batteries


The limiting factor on what the max wire gauge is being able to get it in between the BMS layers, currently it’s the only way I’m getting everything to fit right…hurting for space as always. I think I can get 13awg to go through the e-switch but probably not 12 and definitely not 10

Do the Unity wires and connectors usually get hot?


14 is a little small for 80A. Kapton is very heat resistant but not very abrasion resistant, which is what you need.


What about the connector? 3.5mm bullets/MT60 good enough?


Those should be fine at 65A.


Sweet, time to get fish paper and 12awg I guess


In the USA, is the best place for fishpaper.


Hi, I have two questions

  1. I’m building a 12S3P 18650 pack for a dual motor(6355-190kv) setup. I can buy LG HG2 for $3.5/cell. Samsung 30Q is a little cheaper but it provides 5A less than HG2. Which one should I get?

  2. I’m planning to install both motors on the back. Would you guys recommend installing one on front and one on back ?


You should get 30Q for a 3P battery. Also use discharge graphs and not just the ratings sheet from the manufacturer

3D Printed Boosted Board Killer

You mean dual diagonal? Its only real benefit is extreme traction in snow, rain, et cetera. (You still have one wheel on each truck steering even if the drive wheels are skidding) Also sometimes it allows you to use narrow trucks with huge motors. Sometimes it means you will have torquesteer though.

If you do that, rear heelside and front toeside


dose anyone have a cheap gear drive? for mbs wheels and cal 2 trucks


define β€œcheap” LoLz

less than $450?

Does it have to work?


less than 400


yes do you have any other cheap drive ideas


i would perfer chain drive or hubs not from ali or anything like that


Why not get a very good belt drive for that price? I think chain drive is cheaper, but it’s more noisy.


What is the white plastic with the wires to the e-switch and can I remove it?