Noob question thread! šŸ˜€ ask your questions here!

I got one up the road, Iā€™ll check in a bit

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That would really play on my ocd gene. Badly.

I usually work on 2mm between everything.

I mean the noise canā€™t be worse than the sound of my hubs and Iā€™m okay with them, they start whining 5mph and screaming past 10mph

Iā€™d like a bit more room but I messed up the trucks while lathing themā€¦shitty lathe that isnā€™t actually centered so the faces arenā€™t good enough to mount how I want them

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The belt will soon shave a bit of urethane if its not too bad. Its rolling resistance I would be concerned about but if its ok to ride then its fine. If you let off the throttle and the boards wants to throw you off then its not lol

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1/8" or 1/4" neoprene rubber sheets? Steel enclosure and no silicone for a while, batteries are in holders but the ESC and BMS are all looped together

:grimacing:

Thatā€™s not good in a number of different ways, and I am a large fan of using metal for things. But not enclosures.

The most immediate, but not the biggest, problem is that it will block the airwaves from your remote if your deck has carbon fiber in it.

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Wooden deck for this enclosure, Iā€™ll add some 22awg to the antenna and route it through the deck if it doesnā€™t pick anything up, is it worth getting the 1/4"?

The biggest problem still exists though, in that steel conducts electricity and so you should probably use silicone to stick fishpaper all inside of the enclosure before you put anything in it.

Ehhā€¦the cells are in ABS holders and that face up so the metal only touches the wood, only the wires are a risk and they all have insulation until the BMS which is gonna have shrink wrap. It will not short out

You have not considered ā€œextreme vibrationā€ sufficiently.

I do agree with you that, for bench-testing, you are very accurate.

Once you hit the streets, it a whole 'nother game.

Then quarter it is, Iā€™ll crack it open after a few days of use an if the rubber is being abraded away Iā€™ll overhaul it (empty a few tubes of neutral cure into it)

As neutral cure goes, is there anything better than this for the price? Iā€™m thinking Iā€™ll just pot the entire wire setups

Thatā€™s the good stuff, but that container sucks balls. Get the little 2.8oz tubes, and get a bunch of them. Itā€™s worth the extra money.

Once you open it, it wonā€™t be good for more than a week or so.

If you walk in the store, they are in the paint section.

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Speed washers. Youre welcome

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Anybody know how much longer 6365 (tiller 6369) unsealed maytechs are than 6355 sealed maytechs (with the butt nipples)

You canā€™t just add length to an antenna and expect it to work. The length is specific to the transmitter frequency. If you need to extend it, you need a coaxial cable or other form of transmission line.

I can teach you how to do this correctly if needed, itā€™s not hard, but you canā€™t just add a wire and have it behave correctly.

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I donā€™t think I will have a problem but if it gives me flakk Iā€™ll definitely take you up on that

@thebeardedboy for which wheels, which motors, which gearing?

Iā€™m looking for single-wire connector options, for things like plugging my BMS into the B- line of the battery. I donā€™t want to solder a single wire in place, as itā€™ll mean having to desolder it if I ever need to remove anything. So I was going to solder a wire on both ends, and then have a connector (like an XT90) in the middle. Except I only need a single plug, so wondered if there was a standard for that?

Bullet connectors were my first obvious thought, but they arenā€™t very sturdy and I donā€™t want them popping apart mid-ride.