Noob question thread! šŸ˜€ ask your questions here!

Two things: First, you canā€™t use a 10s BMS for a 9s battery unless is specifically says it can do multiple different cell numbers (Hint- most cheap ones canā€™t.)

Second, you would remove the fourth wire on the first two sets of balance leads - That is, if you have ground, 1-2, 2-3 and positive on each pack, then your arrangement should be ground, 1-2, 2-3, then ground from pack 2, then 1-2 from pack 2, 2-3 from pack 2, then ground from pack 3, and so on, ending with the positive from pack 3, for a total of 10 wires.

second question: Yes, but. You can still use regen braking, but just set your current limits at safe and sane levels (max regen of -12A or so) and donā€™t try to go down a long or steep hill when your cells are at or near 100%.

So, do both batteries show the same reading on each device? As in, If you plug pack 1 into the charger and get 26%, and then plug pack 2 into the charger, is it also 26%?

If the answer is yes they are the same, then the difference is your charger and meter have different settings for the cutoff voltage used to calculate state of charge. The meter is probably calibrated for li-ion, in which ā€œemptyā€ is at between 2.5 and 3 volts, whereas your charger is calibrated for li-po, where the ā€œemptyā€ voltage is more like 3.7 or 3.5. This leads to a shifting of the apparent state of charge.

Iā€™d recommend not running those cells down below ~30% on the battery meter, since that would be getting close to ~3.7v. (You can experiment and figure out exactly what percentage on the meter corresponds with 0% on the charger if you want.)

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Thatā€™s not always true. Itā€™s sometimes true

Wow, thanks for the quick answers !

That was my exact same thoughts.

I have an eye on this 60A BMS: www.aliexpress.com/item/10S-36V-Lithium-Battery-Protection-Board-BMS-with-Balance-Waterproof-18650-Lipo-Li-ion-16A-25A/32950961252.html I contacted this seller regarding my 9S-10S problem and he answered this:ā€œYou can just order 10S 60A same port.
the wiring of 9S is connect 10th and 11th red small wires together to B+ā€ So with this Iā€™ll be able to crank up the regen breaking power if I donā€™t bypass the BMS right ? Also should I get a BMS with combined port or seperate Port ? Whats the difference anyway ?

The seller would not be the one to ask as they are just trying to sell the item. This bms is very cheap so I would say donā€™t use it for a 9s battery.

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True But what BMS should I use then with my setup. Its fine as long as its under 100 bucks and can ship to germany :roll_eyes::slightly_smiling_face:

Or should I stay with a charge only BMS ?

Bestech are pretty much the best that are available majority of the people here use them

http://www.bestechpower.com/333v9spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D266.html

Or you could use a balance charger like this and not have the bms https://www.amazon.com/d/Rc-Battery-Chargers/iMax-LiPo-Balance-Charger-Discharger/B00L4LIF74

I have an IMax Charger and I already drove a few times and charged my board with itā€¦so that works. But I fried a Cell as I tried to charge with my BMS board. Could probably be the wrong balance wireingā€¦Iā€™ll check as soon as I get home. Nevertheless I like the Idea to have my Battery balanced all the time and just plug it to a charger without opening the battery compartment. I also know Bestech from this forum. So I would go ahead and buy this http://www.bestechpower.com/333v9spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCB-D345.html as its a bit smaller, But how/where can i order it ? Thanks again for the support

Contact bestech as the retailers I would get a bms from dont carry 9s as it is not as common of a voltage.

Correct. Every battery has the same value.

The Batterymeter has some Options [F/P/L and 0-17] So i basically always subtract ~30% from the Battery meter to get a fairly ā€œaccurateā€ result.

Would there be a problem if I installed my push button switch to the enclosure and the end part of it is touching the battery pack?

As long as

1: the battery pack canā€™t move around and accidentally crush the inner side of the switch (where all the soldered wires connect)

And

2: itā€™s properly insulated

It should be fine

Is the battery pack covered? How hard is it pushing into the battery pack?

F/P/L is probably LiFePo4/LiPo/Lead acid, and the 0-17 is probably the cell count.

Correct. But i still get different readings compared to my charger. Doesnā€™t matter if i use L,P or F

If Iā€™ve got a bms with a common charging and load negative wire like this: image Will there be any problems? Most bmsā€™s Iā€™ve seen have the negative charging wire on a separate terminal and Iā€™m guessing thereā€™s a reason for that.

For the record, Iā€™m not wiring up my own battery by myself. I obviously donā€™t know how to do that and i know that batteries can be very dangerous so Iā€™m not even going to attempt that.

Iā€™m just trying to find a reasonably priced bms thatā€™s available locally for my battery guy to use.

Itā€™s not unheard of for the charge and discharge to be common like that. As long as you wire it according to the instructions it comes with and use it within its specified limits, you should be fine.

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Itā€™s from Hyperion so itā€™s immensely protected. Board is still in assembly. Didnā€™t take into account I still have to anchor the battery down which will add height that may cause more contact with the button.:tired_face: Iā€™ll take Sn4pz adviceā€¦always a work around. Thanks!

you should be able to use hot glue, as long as the compartment isnt getting hot enough to melt it :rofl:

If you use silicone, make sure you get the right one(that doesnt harm the protective layer/ the cells :slight_smile: )

Hot glue sucks. Thereā€™s almost always something better than hot glue.

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