Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

Red and black go to your batteries then I assume that the white is for the led?

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What do you mean led?

The voltmeter lights up

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So white and red connect to positive and black connects to negative.

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Look up the fluke meters they are a bit pricey but will last longer than you. I beat the crap out of my stuff and i have had no issues with my meter.

Can someone explain battery charging to me pls? It’s the only thing im struggling to find out about, what do i need beside the actual battery for my first build? (Charger, BMS, etc) and whats the best way to charge/why is discharging important?

Question Part A: Hub vs Geared/Pulley motors. I love the idea and look of Hub, take up way less space and are simpler to deal with it seems, but the majority of builds still seem to be using geared/pulley, which I’ve seen people say is because you get more customization. What is better for what situations?

I personally do not need more than 20mph, I’m building on a penny. 18mph is my preferred top speed (beyond that is too unstable for my liking), but I also need to be able to tackle 10-13 % grade hills.

Question Part B: With that said, it seems as though lower kV is considered better for hill climbing (something like 85kV), but the majority of people seem to be using 200-300kV motors.

My ideal solution would give me 15-18mph top speed, ~12% grade hill capabilities, ~2-4 mile ride time min (I don’t need distance as much as the other 2 factors).

I’ve been doing calculations for days and still am not sure if I need to get 2 motors and whether i’d be better off with pulley or if I can go hub (pref, because awesome) and which kV of a motor I need, and how many cells in parallel and series I’d need to run it properly.

If anyone can give me insight into any aspect of this, that would be amazing.

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I received my four 3S1P lipos today and the first thing I did was measuring the voltage of each cell with my “düwi digital multimeter”. One of them was actually perfectly balanced at 3.76V, two others had 3.7±0.15V which is okay I guess. The last one though… it had one cell at 2.27V and from what I’ve read that’s critical. Is the dealer supposed to take them back or is it normal that lipo’s are unbalanced when they arrive?

Lipo’s: 1 - 3.76V 3.76V 3.75V 2 - 3.69V 3.76V 3.88V 3 - 3.92V 3.76V 3.79V 4- 3.73V 2.26V 3.45V

Thats really critical. When Lipos get shipped they are at arround 3.7V for better storage! I would return this battery because it is already faulty and will make more and more problems. It can even fire itself…

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Hello all!

I have a simple (or I assume it is at least) question that I’m having a super hard time finding an answer for online. I’m a big, fat dude. 6’2" 350+lbs. I want to ride an electric board but I’m having a rough time finding information about which board would best suit me. I reached out to the Boosted Board people and they told me they’ve had people my size ride their boards but they had to have a wider stance (I assume just over the wheels). Most other manufacturers stick around the 250lbs range. So I started wondering about diy kits.

Would any of you fine folks be able to suggest a solution for me? I used to skate a lot when I was younger so I’m used to the regular sized boards, I even still have my old Corey O’Brian deck from the late 80’s lol. I’m totally open to a longboard experience though. Honestly, whichever handles my weight better and can run a dual motor as I’m assuming I’d need the extra juice to get around.

Thanks so much! Jamie

Look, noob here too, but I’ve been reading A LOT!

I’d suggest the Metroboard Dual drive, or the Ollin Freeride Board. They are the Two most robust and powerful pre-built boards out there. (Street setups)

However, this being esk8 builders, you can build just as powerful yourself. Keep reading here. There’s TONS of info!

Reach out to a custom builder on this site… just ask, they will be all over you in no time.

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Do you guys think this Soldering looks good or nah?

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Bump I want to put my board together i just want a confirmation that it should work with this soldering :wink:

Your wire looks maybe little bit too thin, depending what battery you use. And i recommend put some shrinktube on wires.

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I’ve got two noob questions. First off, does an electric skateboard really need an ESC? It seems to me that it could be as simple as just pressing a button. Also, I’ve been fearing that if I build a single drive board, the board would always be turning slightly in one direction. Thanks for the help!

The soldering looks good, but get some heatshrink on.

short answer: yes

Yes, you do need ecs. And I bet you can’t notice any difference while you ride.

Im using space cell 4. Thats my Sound system cables. Ratet for max 80 amps. So i think it should be fine with thinkness.