You don’t want reverse as it probably wouldn’t have brakes. But it is in the ppm set up
Okay, I didn’t realize setting up for reverse cancels braking function. I was thinking it was like boosted where the board slows down then begins to go reverse. Thanks for your input.
current reverse with breaks, no?
there should work breaks, just if you break too much below 3000 rpm or so the wheels turn backwards
Do you know if its a sudden breaking then goes into reverse?
If you have to brake really hard and you slow down enough it would probably reverse. I think for safety reasons you shouldn’t do reverse because you could eat pavement if you forget about it.
it goes only reverse when your speed is low enough to switch directions.
it works the same like it works on boosted boards.
If they were new you could, this is what people do to create battery packs
The problem if you got second hand batteries is that you wouldn’t know the state of health of them, this would mean the real capacity and current capability of them could be different
If one had been abused more than the other it may heat up or fail during discharge, if they don’t discharge at a similar rate with similar capacity you could have an in rush of current from one to the other
what are the smallest pnaumatics, besides the skull board ones?
the skull board wheels are not pneumatics, they are a low durometer thane. the smallest are the 5in available on amazon and alibaba.
The best are @psychotiller 6 Shooters .
My charger outputs 42.4V. It should only output 42V. Is it dangerous to charge my battery at that voltage?
I use the Bestech D140 10s bms. My battery is 10s6p Samsung 30q
Does anyone know how to change the output voltage?
I recently finished assembling a 12s4p battery pack of Samsung 30Qs, for use with a dual 6374 setup, and I’m feeling a bit troubled about not using this as efficiently as I could have. I don’t think that I will be able to draw as many amps off the pack as I’d like to, in order to take advantage of my motors.
I soldered the nickel strips on instead of spot weld, so I guess I could undo them and possibly buy more batteries and make a 12s 5-6p pack, but uncertain if I’m worrying over nothing. My motors are 192KV so 12s is the voltage I have to run it at to be most effective, but still have concerns about amperage capabilities.
What is a good bang for buck 12s (50.4v) wall charger you’d recommend? My BMS maxes out at 15A, so any charger’s ability to go above that wouldn’t be taken advantage of.
What‘s your question here?
You don’t wanna go over 8a with a 4p pack anyhow.
Just search for 12s Charger on AliExpress or eBay. There are a lot of deals in the 2-5a range.
Schau, was ich auf AliExpress gefunden
Am I being inefficient with my setup of 12s4p 30Qs if I want to run dual 6374 (192KV)? If so, what can I do to optimize?
You have 80a for the battery.
That’s 40a per vesc/focbox.
If you have a hw4.12 vesc without heatsink the bat Max is maximal 35a. So all is good.
For sure all depends on your setup in general.
If you have an emtb and a Vesc6 you could want to have more power but besides I don’t understand why it should be inefficient to run a 12s4p
Ah, ok. I didn’t realize that non-heatsinked 4.12 HW vescs had a max of 35a. I only ever had seen 50a specified for it, but that didn’t say whether or not it was heat-sinked.
They advertised with 50a because the datasheet of the components say so too.
But in real live the practice showed that 35a for bat max is the best value. Above they heat up und you get a power output restriction or even fry your vesc.
Would it be possible to explain how my pack has 80a discharge capability? Based on this: https://batterybro.com/products/samsung-30q-inr1865030q-3000mah-15a
It seems like since my configuration is 4p that my max discharge would be 60a.
Samsung 30q advertised at 15a but in real life they 20a cells