Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

For my first build I have an idea of mounting everything to my deck, with Velcro and/or screws. The enclosure will support everything and keep the Velcro engaged. Components will be protected by a thin layer of closed cell foam. This way I can remove the enclosure cleanly and everything stays in place.

My question is, what to do about motor phase cables and sensor wires? I had planned to route these through holes in the enclosure, using rubber grommets to keep things tidy and somewhat watertight. However if I do this, I won’t be able to just take the enclosure off cleanly.

I’m thinking I will create some jumper cables that will be permanently fixed in place on the enclosure. The focbox unity will connect to the cables inside the enclosure, and can be disconnected when the enclosure is removed. The other end will connect to the motors.

What do people usually do?

the problem with the jumper cable is, that you non the less need to connect and disconnect the wires each time you want to remove the enclosure. If you use mt60 connectors that would work, but with bullet connectors which you should cover with a extra heatshrink or electric tape after connected, it would be kind of time consuming. you could place your unity in the enclosure as it´s only idk 180-200g if i remember right. with it you only need to disconnect the main power leads. or you can place the phase holes to the total up of your enclosure, so that they open to the end of the enclosure. if you use 5 or 10mm neopren tape instead of rubber to seal your electrics you can than just route your cables along the deck.

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Does my welds look overdone? They are really strong but there is a bit of burn marks in the weld? IMG_3470 IMG_3472 IMG_3471

Guys, is there a charger that can charge single 18650s to a certain voltage before you start building your pack?

I am assuming we want it at like 3.6v or just charge the cells fully to 4.2 and build away?

If you buy new cells they should come in one voltage (usually 3.4 or 3.6v)

You could also get something like this Schau, was ich auf AliExpress gefunden

With it you can charge and discharge single cells so that they have the same voltage in the end

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After configuring motors for FOC do you have to go through BLDC settings for motor detection or does FOC setting detect motors bypassing the need to setup BLDC motor detection?

Go through the motor wizard and select FOC. If you successfully finished the wizard than no need to make the same with bldc

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Can I use a flipsky 6,6 dual vesc with only one motor in the dual setting?

Why would you want to just get the single 6.6 vesc

I’m making a dual drive build, but only have one motor at the moment. The master side vesc is on the opposite side of my heel side motor, and the wires are to short for it, so I have to use the slave side, Wich only works in dual mode.

I would just wait until you have both motors it will be easier in the long run to do it that way

Can you have different trucks on 1 board?

Yes it is a common thing in the LDP area of longboarding

I think i’m the only one who wants this function but where in the vesc software can I get my board to “slow stop to slow stop” like how boosted does it?

How do I become a regular on this forum?

You got to train hard and eat your vitamins and you will eventually become a regular. Actually you have to get your read time up and likes I think.

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What do you meant to slow down before your stop. just release the trigger.

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I’m guessing when signal loss occurs is what he means.

Actually I should have said where in vesc software can I get my board to go reverse? I don’t have my board built but I’m learning on how to setup vesc. Thanks

So does this mean that it would be safe to wire to of the same type battery packs together. For instance if I had two scrapped bamboo GT’s and I wanted to extend the range. Wire the two battery packs in parallel and bang, extra range without damaging the VESC?