Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

If the JB weld trick doesn’t work, you can try hammering a slightly oversized torx driver into the stripped socket. That should cut its own grooves into the screw and allow you to back it out.

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While I agree with the other points, this is not correct

If you use the right loctite you don’t need anything further to fix the sprocket

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Use that red/green stuff I used :rofl:

About where you are now then :rofl:

I’m not saying it can’t be a workable solution. But from my own personal experience, even loctite 680 sleeve retainer can fail, and has for me on wheel pulleys in the past, which is why I don’t use it in that application anymore and thus it is not recommended in my book. I will always use either a key or a setscrew on a flat.

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Loctite 648 and 680 can fail. Under normal conditions though that failure has more to do with improper application than anything else.

Typical mistakes are inadequate degreasing, curing time, too big gap etc

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Please, tell me all about the proper use of anaerobic threadlocking and retaining compounds. It’s not like I used to work on airplane engines for a living or anything. Sure hope none of those fasteners suffered mistakes like that.

Besides, if it’s so easy to do it wrong, then maybe it shouldn’t be the one-stop go-to solution for noobs, whereas a key in a keyway is pretty much idiot-proof.

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I bow to your knowledge and experience oh mighty one.

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i have 12s4p battery. i need an esc that works with it

Edit: honestly it would work, but if you want something for your board you need to give us some more infos. What you want to get out of your esc?

hey, hopefully its not too late, but I would space that belt out from the wheel. I had some evolve 107s and the belt was a little too close to the back of the wheel

image

this happened to them after about 75 mi (100 mi total, the first 25mi was using a different setup)

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Did it translate into any practical problem when riding? Or was it just aesthetical? I guess that there is extra unnecessary friction.

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primarily just aesthetics, but I found that when it was rubbbing against the wheel it made a pretty annoying noise, as well as very slightly decreasing efficiency (wh/km increase)

I think I went from like 15wh/km to 17 or something on average… Or it could have just been me :crazy_face:

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Thanks! I’ll see what I can do, perhaps I can get better clearance playing a little bit with the motor pulley.

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a change of 3/4mm should be enough to give proper clearance :+1:

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Depending on the type of truck you use if they are calibers they have the same geometry as Randals and they have a 35 degree baseplate that would people you are 55 and may help your issue.

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5,5 single bullets are a joke for me, are there any triple connectors for phase wires?

MT60 and SR30

I consider these of a too low amp rating.