Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

MG Chemicals only sells wholesale. You have to find them on eBay or Amazon.

The “silicone” is the most useful, “acrylic” is the second-most useful and “urethane” is useful for large wires and loop keys and stuff. The solvent in the “acrylic” one is very nasty and eats a lot of things but it’s fine on circuit boards. If you get one, get silicone. If you get two, get silicone and acrylic. If you get all three, they are all useful if you know how to use them.

Acrylic is good in a single coat on things that get hot like heatsinks and FETs. Acrylic also is very runny and is good for seeping into places you can’t get the brush. Acrylic has a nasty solvent. In a pinch, you could use your wife’s clear nail polish and dilute it with a tiny bit of nail polish remover to make a fake version of this.

Silicone is good on PCBs and most things but can hold heat. It’s great in multiple coats. It’s my goto unless there’s a reason to use acrylic or urethane. Use it, and use a lot of it. One coat, wait, one more coat, wait, one more coat. Put it wherever you don’t want water to be. It’s not going to hurt the electronics, but the water will. Displace it with this stuff.

Urethane is good on large tactile things like the loop part of a loopkey and the solder junction between two 10AWG wires, et cetera. It’s the least-useful of the three, but still is useful. It can pop off if flexed too much.

Please help me on this topic

Lovely. Im about to ask the most noob question on this forum

do motors have built in heatsinks? If not I dont have a heatsink. Don’t think I have an FET.

Okay I will def get silicon, coat all my elctronics in it.

I got a BMS from bestech with a switch, so im not sure about using a loopkey (should I still?) but if I do I should probably waterproof it. Is there any real point to putting Eurethrane on the battery solders? If water gets into the shrinkwrapped pack im screwed anyways. I dont plan on riding through puddles, but if the concrete is wet wheels will kick up water.

disclaimer
WARNING: enertion lawyers being thrown red meat. This post is probably illegal according to Jason at enertion.

No, they don’t, but typically the motor mount itself is made of aluminum, and it pulls heat from the stator into the truck hanger.

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I always see people with broken anti-spark switches, does the e-switch on a good BMS and ESC get the same issues?

Plan is BesTech HCX-D223V1 and Unity with the ‘loopkey’ as the connection between them, not gonna touch any of the switches unless it goes into storage for a while or I need it dead when cops are around, using the roll to start and auto shut off features instead

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It’s roll to start.

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Noob question again, im making a 10s4p single pack, so I should get 3 pairs of parrelel Xt-90? 3 of these (one xt90S for antispark)

and 3 of these?

I got the same BMS and I second that question, a loopkey is one extra step and one more thing to attach to the bottom of the board and one more thing to waterproof

So if the heat is in the hanger, how can we quickly cool it down for efficiency’s sake?

:smirk:

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I make things that look like this –

20190412_223213

– but the battery itself I solder together and put a single XT90S on it.

Female side goes on the battery. In case you’re confused, this is female

xts-3%20(copy)

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Is the Pic you sent the single xt90s? I just need to know what specifically to order

I just need one xt90s female for the battery?

It all depends. I use XT90S and XT60 and – rarely – XT90

You have to engineer your own esk8. Do what you need to do to make it work :wink:

I use XT60 sometimes because the FOCBOXes used to come with those already on them.

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As long as an antispark is between the BMS and ESC it will protect it (assuming its the last connection you make), usually we have a loopkey that is left inside the enclosure or pokes through, but you can wire an XT90s into the BMS out lead and do that instead to save space (its what I’m going to do)

Thank you, I havnt done this before (obviously) and have no idea what to expect, once I have all the parts in front of me itll be easier to figure out. Could you just tell me how many connectors to buy? One pair of xt90s? Parrelel? and one or two pairs of xt60?

I thought the xt90S was exclusively for the antispark, you use it for regular battery wiring as well as the antispark?

Don’t you technically use a male XT90 attached to your female XT90s?

Last time I’m poking you today

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Each build is different. I’d have to ask you 25 questions to find out the answer.

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Yes.

Very rarely I use female XT90. I use female XT90S and male XT90 and male/female XT60 a lot.

Typically XT60 for a single-motor-in-a-dual-motor system

and XT90 for a single motor system or for both-motors-in-a-dual-motor-system

Like this, where both drive currents go through an XT90 but each ESC itself uses an XT60.

Also, spend the extra few cents and buy “Amass” brand connectors. It’s silly not to. They’re barely more expensive and twice as good.

Keep them plugged together while soldering so the pins stay straight. That means you’ll need a few extra connectors :wink:

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:exploding_head: officially committed to memory

What is an official xt90? Is it a parrelel adapter?

I want to order a female xt90s and a male xt90 for a single motor build. 10s4p