So I read some more about my battery and found out mooch did a test on it.
Turns out you can push these atleast to 10 amps each.
Now I’m running 10s4p of these but can’t seem to get more than 35 amps max. (very saggy when pulling this amount of amps). My settings are 40 batt
Why can’t I pull more? is it the sag?
Strange, never hear that. Maybe check the circle clip. If the bell could move that could have influence on the alignment of your gear drive and cause that noice. Maybe…
How you monitor the amp drawing? With bt module? If yes you can check in your records how high is the sag and than make your own conclusions to it.
The sag is around 4 volts. Maybe 5
Yes measured with BT module
35a x 42V are around 1500watt
I assume you not a heavy guy 
on flat road you should get some good acceleration with it. With my mtb on flat i think i‘m usually don’t draw more than 1000watt per motor and i‘m about 85-90kg with gear on, so 750watt with urethane wheels should be fine or you have a problem with it?
I was just wondering if I could push my cells even more. Once I go 6 inch wheels
I don’t think so. Take a look at these two graphs: 
While the GA does outperform other 3500mah cells like the 35E (See image below), it sags much worse than the venerable 30Q. Great for larger packs with high P-groups and low current per cell, but far from ideal for demanding high-drain applications.
Is this the cost of 1 truck. I don’t know if i need to buy it twice?
It’s for one truck
that is so saaaad … but thanks a lot for trying to help me, my friend !!!
Very kind of you 
Unfortunately, it is again something that nobody has encounter before …
I’m so never lucky 
… always the 1st who is it coming …
(I would have thought maybe that has already arrived to someone …)
Hard to see this WE of full sunshine vibe and around 25/30°C pass so fast without even could try my board 
Yeah super strange …
Unfortynately, it’s not just a sound issue… but more a power/cogging issues.
I can roll/ride at around 5kmh without any pb, fkn silente with the Helical gear, foc, etc. but once I really apply power (more than just 2 or 3mm f the throttle) it go crazy … cry more than me ^^ loose the speed and power.
Do a check on all your connections. I had that happen due to a loose motor connector.
like @taz said, if you get a power reduction under load only and without load all is ok, than my first guess would be lose connection/ bad solder joins or similar.
Thanks guys ! 
I will recheck all for sure !!
But yeah, it also happen without load like you could see in the video …
Maybe a loose connector somewhere 
(I hope 
!)
I don’t know why but it looks like a phase wires extensions pb …
thx guys, I have to put my madbox back and it should be good ^^
Thank you once again 
[shitpost] few years ago I saw an eboard in my dreams with Beautiful royally dark zebrawood skateboard deck, 60mm 4WD hub motors, a very clean black battery box underneath and independent four wheel suspension just like this:
but much cleaner and a bit more bigger (or the wheel in the picture are too big?). It was a summer evening in some pub-bar pedestrian area in the city and the guy riding it did an ollie over like meter wide ‘gravel’ belt in the smooth granite pavement area and did a nice soft landing right in front of me. After that we went into the pub, laid our eboards next to a wall and had a beer or something. Trippy
But I never thought this kinda independent suspension was possible on eboards tho, never seen those before. Just randomly saw this on google search
Gotta love the elements of REM sleep 
How in the focbox Unity basic tool can I change from foc to bldc and what would be the max braking regen current for a duel 6s lipo 8000mah 60c run it in series.
haha, don’t shame me now but I have a really noob question - I had impluse bought 180mm Paris trucks for eboards, but I was sceptical of the M4 holes on the baseplates so I drilled them to 5.5mm or something – what do people think of it? Compromised? o.O
I believe the base plate holes are 10-32. You should be ok but just be mindful.
Irritatingly so. If you have a welder with wands or hand held welding probes, use a step weld instead of a parallel weld. And keep your positive lead in the ame place, on the metal below, and move the negative around on top of the metal above for multiple welds.