Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

would a 10s5p be to much for a mountain board

I’d say about the bare minimum.

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oh i thought 4p would work

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It will but the range will be better with 5p. Mtb use large diameter pneumatics and they affect range far more than urethane wheels. Also the set up is usually heavier so the higher the p rating the better.

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What @dareno :point_up_2: said, plus not to forget you will definitely draw more current if you go for a off-road session instead of driving on streets. If you plan to get a kaly style board than 4p is enough. Everything above I wouldn’t go under 5p

Charge port goes to C-, not B-

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I need a 3v 300ma power source in my board, I allready have an ubec from 12s, to 5v, but it outputs a lot of amps, I have a flipsky 6,6, I imagine I could just pull such litle voltage from it, but I really really don’t want to solder anything to the Vesc, what are my options? Thank you

you could use a stand alone power source. Not sure what you would use it for besides lights.

Amps aren’t something that are pushed, they are pulled. Voltage is pushed.

So it outputs 5V, and is capable of supplying a lot of amperage, if drawn. But with no load the amperage will be zero, while the voltage will still be 5.

Amperes are “A”, “a” means “atto” and is a metric prefix.

What do you need the 3V 300mA for? It’s always possible to use a few diode drops to use the 5V supply for that, but it depends what you need it for.

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There is really a teacher lost with you… :pensive::stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: Just on point with the explanation :ok_hand:

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I just follow him round bookmarking all his stuff and then repeat it to others in the vain hope I look intelligent. :sunglasses:

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so basically the only connection i’ll be soldering to the bms is the c-

the rest is all connected through the balance wires?

one

For some reason I thought the B- was also a separate wire to the battery outside of the balance wires

Sometimes it is and sometimes it doesn’t have to be. Some BMS don’t have B0, in that case you must use B-. Also if you discharge through the BMS you must run large gauge wire to B-. It all depends. That’s the way I like to wire it with a BMS that has B0

Also that way all your charge current is going through B0 so make sure it’s 22AWG or bigger for 4A charge and 24AWG or bigger for 2A charge.

Also always put a 5A or 7.5A or 10A fuse on the charge jack

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thanks, it’s charge only - the bms has 11 wires so i imagine it has the connection?

does it matter where you put a fuse as in positive or negative side

i’m going to guess the bms side?

Yes

Verify that B0 is connected to B- though with a multimeter

No, but I put everything on the negative side for consistency. That way ALL positives just connect together. It will work on either side.

Use these

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/576-099707.5WXN

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@skunk do you know if this wiring would work with a battery LED display inputted somewhere?

Not gonna pretend im that well versed yet. @b264 and @Andy87 are pros

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The loop key should be female and the side on the board male.

Also you need a fuse on the charge port negative

The charge port positive needs to go to the other side of the loopkey

Also it’s better to make the battery in the other configuration

connections

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Using a Vruzend kit, so unfortunately the former way seems to be the only option. I’m not sure what you mean by the charge port positive going on the other side. You mean it would go in between the battery and the first XT90 Loop, skipping the loop key?

And for the loop key, just swapping the female and male should fix it?

The way you have it in the image, you can’t charge if the board is turned off. This is less than ideal.

Yes

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