Took a while but I had gotten it (semi)finished 
Thanks @Hummie! The ride is amazing with such a long deck and big wheels
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Creative grip
While mine still stuck In customs, sighsā¦
damn tell me what they say when you know. I put 70$ value I think and donāt remember you mentioning it.
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What is the width of hole in the dual cutout version?
The two holes are 74mm wide n 583 long with a 20mm beam between. 
Still havenāt finish the squeeze battery for it. Got more abs on route coming tomorrow
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What printer do you have? Make sure to have it covered when printing in ABS.
zortrax 200 printer. what you mean by having it covered? I actually cover it with a rag or something to hold in heat but generally it doesnāt need it but this part is 205mm long and the edges peel if you have any solutions. infact I have some other filament now but itās also doing the same. I forget the terminology but the raft or something keeps separating. its not the part separating from the support but the support or raft separating from itself. see if I can alter it how it makes the raft but havenāt figured it. ive never even tried pla on this thing and always good with abs as long as not so long
From what you have explained, it might be shrinking. ABS requires about 90 degrees Celsius surrounding temperature while printing. I am new to this but someone with more 3D printing experience can help. @skatardude10
Your printer already has an enclosure, so nevermind my keep it covered suggestion.
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If you can do with a few C less temp resistance than ABS but still very temperature resistant compared to PLA, try PETG.
I find 3D Solutech PETG works amazing compared to other PETG Iāve tried- minimal warping, minimal shrinkage.
ABS is kind of dated, and itās always going to be troublesomeā¦ For example, nylon is notoriously difficult to print, warps and shrinksā¦ And I have much better success with Nylon than ABS. Nylon and PETG completely took ABSās place for me: Nylon for very very strong but needing to flex a tad without breaking parts and PETG for rigid parts that arenāt expected to be subjected to flex forces (may crack) but still needs to be strong.
As for getting your prints to not warp- donāt print such large parts with ABS. You need round edges instead of sharp edges on parts that contact the build plate. Iāve had success with a glass build plate compared to other build Tak like surfaces if thatās what you have. A clean glass slate cleaned with acetone, then isopropyl alcohol, then 3-4 layers of well layed glue stick works for me with ABS. I have not had any success with ABS slurry, but I hear that works for a lot of people getting ABS to stick.
For sure if you donāt have a permanent enclosure, make one if you plan to stick with ABS or print in Nylon eventually. Reduce drafts. Heat your bed hot- 105C works for me. Make sure your first layers with ABS are printed 10C hotter than the rest, 255C maybe? To go that hot, ensure you have an all metal hot end. Print first layer slow and consider an extra 1-10% extrusion multiplier on the first layer. Rafts are great sometimes but you say you have some trouble with them, I canāt help you here because I avoid rafts if at all possibleā¦ I stick with brims of at least 7mm, up to 15mm.
Hope this helps
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Does this board have flex ?
a little.
Iād use a battery pack with some amount of flex. or try to suspend a hard pack with foam or something like that.
thatās like asking if its half empty it seems and I say its full of flex. but stiff. youāll have to get on it to really see. but I did do a demo video on here maybe 3000 posts back of me jumping on it.
I forget how long are the screws youre using and any stainless insert will do? looking for (25) m4 inserts, screws, and I guess washers. black probably
The zortrax was designed for abs. And for the most part, shrinkage was pretty predictable to me. I thought nylon was much harder to print in my experience.
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I hear this often but I just donāt get it. I print with ABS almost exclusively and I very seldom have issues. When I do its mostly because of the model and not the material. Iām using a Lulzbot Taz Mini with PEI sheet.
So I bought a bunch of color change ABS when HK was clearing them out. I think I went through 1.5 spools trying to print a certain un-named modular box that lets you build solderless battery packs (
) The 4p version. Iām on a Prusa MK3.
Initially I had corner lifting ā a lot of it. I cleaned the hell out of the PEI sheet, elevated some temperatures, tweaked speeds, extrusion multiplier, added a huge brim, and even built a styrofoam enclosure. The corner lifting was improved but not solved, but there are distortions due to the higher temperature and the shrinkage, elephant foot, etc., so the fit of the lid is compromised.
You can blame the model I suppose, but I have similar issues with anything around this scale.
PLA and PETG I have some issues with, but not nearly this bad. ABS is actually kicking my ass! I have some other things I can try, like mickey mousing the corners, ABS slurry or gluestick. Or heating the enclosure. First printer, so probably me being n00b but I tried a lot of stuff! I get passable prints but not great, and pretty high rejection rate.
Iām jelly @mmaner
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I do have a full enclosure, its gets pretty warm in there quick. Thatās probably a lot of why I rarely have issues. If you have a heated bed, make a plexi enclosure and make sure its sealed really well. A long thin slot in the top so the filament can pass unobstructed, but other than that closed up tight.
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the zortrax I have supposedly does better with high temp stuff when the four walls are on but the top is still always open surprising. I put a trash bag on top when it screws up on big prints and use a slurry. strangely my only problem ever is delaminating between the raft
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Iāve read that reducing the drafts from moving the bed can be more effective than enclosing the whole thing. As in, printing a tall skirt around the whole object can really help.
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I printed ABS on my open CR 10. With 5mm of brim, I superglued the corners and no fan. It printed fine with a little bit of elephant foot. Not er touching ABS again without a full enclosure.
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