I’m gradually gathering the parts for my first build, looking for something for short trips around home (S. London based), running to shops etc. I’m taking it slowly and doing lots of research so hopefully I end up with something useful that I can be proud of - I love whitepony’s builds so using those for inspiration, and looking forward to revisiting my engineering uni days.
So far I have:
Loaded Poke
Caliber II 50
Orangatang Kegels
30x Samsung 30Q 18650 - looking to build a 10s3p
Supower 60a BMS (on the way)
Winning V2 remote
I’m now deciding on:
Motor - 6374 SK8 vs Streetwing 6374 190kv
ESC - Hobbyking or Focbox - I think I’ll want to run FOC to be less intrusive
Then final parts will be mount, kegel pulley and drive gear - Street Wing have been very helpful responding to my questioning emails and so I think 15/36 gearing sounds best. I’ll probably make a build thread when I am closer to actually putting the parts together!
Hello all, Magnus here, Brazilian who fell in love with eboards. I’m trying to look at parts that are available locally so I don’t need to import since it is too expensive for me.
Though of making a tread for it but I’ll ask here anyways.
Wanted to know how much customization I can make to a speed controller. Wanted to input a max speed lock mode, and set it to some sort of cruise mode where it keeps speed without needing to constantly accelerating it. After some research I couldn’t find an answer , is it possible to use an arduino board as a speed controller, given I program it properly? I’m asking since the arduino can have more features other than controlling speed, which would allow me to add other functionalities to the board.
Also wanted to ask if it is possible to implement some sort of non-rc speed controller with buttons and switches or other pressure based devices. My Idea was to add a switch/button on each end of the board (not very close to the edge), which when pressed would increase or decrease speed by X kms at a time. I would also add a security key like in a jet ski. It connects to the engine or the ESC so when I fall off the board the key (which is connected to my belt or any body part) gets disconnected from the board, shutting it off (unless anyone has made something more simple and efficient that I have missed without using rcs).
Final question. Would it be necessary to add a 2w drive engine to lift a 170-180lb guy over some hills and 10-30 degrees streets. Also, the torque matters when cruising over bad streets with a lot of holes in it using 80-100mm all terrain wheels, if so how much more torque would I need to maintain stable speeds without forcing the engine too much.
Hello all, new member here. Im 23 years old living in Texas. Became very interested in the Eboard craze, but i had my doubts and concerns…so i bought the cheapest thing that would accomodate my potential riding needs. Bought DiyEboards cheap AT board, bc i would mostly be riding on broken concete sidewalks and dirt/grass. It was okay-ish for a beginner board and peaked my interest. Now im fully hooked amd plan to do the whole Etroxx Direct drive, Trampa board, esk3 6374 149kv(not too worried about top speed, may go higher kv in future but i weigh 260lbs so i dont think itll be overkill torque) 12s8P self build probably if i can fit it. Thx for reading
Exactly! I’m planing to use 150mm wheels, dual drive, printed gear drive. Yes, basically like the other post 3D printed MTB gear drive you saw but on a street board. It’s gonna be soooo awesome! @moon
my name is Florian and I’m currently building a mountainboard. I already have:
Trampa HS11
Vertigo Trucks
Superstar Wheels with 8" primo
Trampa ratchet bindings
2x 6384 APS Motors
12s5p diy Batterypack with BMS
Adjustable charger 40-55 Volt with max 10A (500W)
I am waiting for:
2× Escapes by @stewii
1 Motormount by @Idea
I will do a build thread when i am ready so i can share my mistakes with everybody
I’m Alex and I’m looking to build a board after buying an Evolve Bamboo GTX a couple of months ago. Nothing wrong with the Evolve, just want to try my hand at making something myself. Keen for something a little smaller and stiffer with a kick tail. It will also mean I can have a mate come along with me which is a bonus as well.
I wanted to get the skateboard parts up and running first, so have ordered the below:
Motor Mount - Hobbyking Esk8 motor mount (meant to not suck and only $10 bucks - see how we go)
Motor - Turnigy SK8 6374 192Kv sensored (happy to hear that sensored isn’t worth it and get the SK3 which is actually in stock)
Pulley (Motor) - I’ve got a dead motor from the GTX with a 15T steel pulley on it - I’ll see if it will work with the motor.
Pulley (Wheel) - I’ve got the original 32 tooth pulleys from my GTX after upgrading to the 38 tooth wheel pulleys, but I’m thinking these might not work due to them mounting directly onto the shaft of the trucks rather than being pulled into the wheel with retaining bolts. If they won’t then I’ll buy the hobbyking pulley set as it comes with everything I need for only $35 bucks (unless it won’t fit the caliber trucks)
Belt - 15mm HTD5 - not sure what length I’ll need yet - but as above if I can use the spare ones from my GTX I’ll do that
Battery/BMS/Enclosure/ESC/Remote/Charger - I’m looking at buying either the 10s2p LG/Samsung kit from DIYEBOARD with the dual belt drive ESC and the two separate enclosures, or go for the 10s5p all in one kit in the single bigger enclosure. Not sure what quality I’ll get from this but I can’t be stuffed messing with LiPo’s and can’t stretch the budget any more than I already am given I spent AUD$2K on the GTX 2 months ago… The 10s2p will cost me AUD$400 shipped, versus AUD$500 shipped for the 10s5p version. This is the main area I’m looking for advice. I’m 85Kg and live in a hilly area - will a 10s2p be enough to feed my big motor and get me up the hills without murdering my range completely, or should I go for the lower quality but bigger capacity 10s5p kit?
Looking forward to hearing all about how my idea won’t work so i can fix it all up before I spend the majority of the cash.
Hello! My name is Max. I live in Russia, Moscow.
A few months ago I bought a MEEPO board, and now decided to build my own board.
First of all, would like to tell that I am snowboarding for 15 years so far, and this year would like to build a carving eboard. I am not keen on speed so much - 20mph is enough, as for the range I am going to cover about 10-15m.
My plans are:
loaded vanguard,
Paris trucks (my choice instead calibers),
kegels
single 6355 190kv
DIY VESC
8s li-po(???)
Other parts are chosen, but I don’t think it is necessary to mention them right now.
Thanks!
Hi, I’m DavidLee from shenzhen, China.Currently, I am mainly engaged in the BMS industry. I have developed BMS for automobile, military and general consumer equipment. I hope I can make friends around the world.
Attached picture is 6-10 series of 50A BMS with RS485 and CAN, FAE adopts TI BQ76930 and MCU USES STM32L151, which CAN be used as product application or for development and learning.
Hello.
Names Kelly (dude) I just got a riptide r1 as a gift. Been an avid boarder my whole life. Grew up with half pipe in back yard and a grandparent that still builds surf boards for a living.
For whatever reason I’ve been holding off on getting into Eboards but I’ve been wanting to for some time.
Im happy with the R1 so far. Been riding it daily for 3 weeks. But I’ve never been a pre built kinda guy, so now I’m wanting to build something better suited for my needs.
I’ve been doing some reading but I’ve always done better hands on. I know what I want, just need to brake down the execution.
I’d love to start with modifying my r1. Maybe just new motors and a better battery.
But I’d like to build a fresh set up.
My eboard is my daily transportation so a second board as a back up seems reasonable.
Definitely want belt driven.
I’d like to be able to go 30mph+ or at least just under.
10mile+ range
But the big thing I want to improve over my r1 is power consistency. I notice a big change in power after I hit 70% battery.
I’ve been reading but still feel a bit lost honesty.
Maybe I’m just tired. Working too much.
Here’s my r1, had to change the grip. I can’t own things and not customize them. Art is by ArtOfSkinner. Luckily I had a set of abec11
Wheels from another board so I upgraded to those right away. I’ve got a set of abec11 superfly blacks that I’d like to try, but looks like I’ll need to modify the belt shield.
As I have just come into contact with this website, I am not familiar with many operations. I am sorry.I will create a new theme later, and I hope you can give me more advice, so that we can do better.As for the BMS just sent, 6-10 strings CAN be customized, 0-50a CAN be customized, and RS485 or CAN CAN CAN choose one of them。
Hey guys. I’m new in this form but I’m a long time longboarder and Eboarder from NYC. Started with metroboard dual motor (25 miles) and switched over to single motor board for more range (40 miles). I then got a boosted v1 dual and bought and Acton s2. I then started to try electric unicycles and bought a gotway Tesla 1020 and a king song 14c. Now I’m building a mountainboard diy project. Setup is trampa complete mountainboard with straps equipped with a 12s8p 18650 30q Samsung batteries with charge only bms to dual sk8 6374 192kv motors on a 5:1 gear ratio direct drive on 8" tires. I’m thinking if getting the g2tb remote mod in the future When I finish my build.
I’ve never skateboarded much, but I’ve been snowboarding for ~15 years. After seeing a boosted board on my walk to work, I decided that would be way more fun than walking. But I didn’t want to spend $1300 right off the bat, so I got a wowgo mini. I just got it this afternoon, so I’ve maybe got a mile on it, but damn is it fun. After I was done I replaced the trucks with paris 43s, haven’t tried those yet. Next is bushings, cause I’m ~210lbs.
I don’t expect the wowgo to last much past it’s warranty, so I’m looking to start building it’s replacement now. I’m thinking single 6374 or 84, focbox or maybe even a cheaper vesc 4.12 since I probably won’t be running a huge amount of amps. Battery either 10 or 12s3p, and I might look at LiFePo since my commute is very short. Possibly using 18650-sized LiFePos with N.E.S.E modules, because I’m lazy. 12s for sure with LiFePos as I think the ones I was looking at were 3.2v reference.
My background is computer science, though I started out as an aerospace engineering major so I’ve picked up some electrical/hardware skills as well. Not to the point of designing a PCB, but at least I know which ends the electrons flow from.
