Got a few 180KV of them in, here is a pic compared to 6374. Cant wait to try them 
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Got round to testing my motors today before cutting the shafts down to fit my gear drives. 2 things I noticed:
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They do have temp sensor and I was able to see this reading in the vesc app
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I brought 4 motors, 2 boxes of 2. I found that both motors from one box have the large wheel bearings secured to the motor bell. However in both motors from the other box the large bearing does not seem to be properly fitted into the motor bell causing it to not spin with the motor bell.
Im wondering what other peoples motors do? can you spin the large bearing without spinning the motor bell or are they firmly fixed together?
Does anyone know if this is correct and acceptable or is this going to become a problem in the long run?
@EileenMaytech have you seen this before?
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Seems weird to me unless its just the dust cover turning and not the outer race. Can you put a spot of black marker on the outer race to confirm if thatâs turning?
I guess I canât really tell from the video so sorry if just blowing smoke here.
Thanks, its easy to see now. That canât be normal, normally bearings would be press fit or glued.
Will have to see what Maytech say about it.
@PatRocks how hard was it to remove the can from the front bearing on the one you disassembled? Press fit or glue?
If the tolerance is still good and they donât rattle maybe just a spot of glue is all that is needed?
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Relative to pulling apart other motors, itâs exactly the same. The bearings are fixed to the stator, there is minute free play which allows the bell to spin, without the bearing spinning. Itâs obvious if you think about it: bearings cannot be pressed on to or into an object by the opposite (inner/outer) race without marring the races. I.e.: press a motor bearing in via the inner race, and its fucked. You have to apply the force to the race that is facing the friction of insertion (lol?)⌠unless both inner/outer race have the equivalent pressure applied and ball alignment stays right lol!
If there wasnât any free play, either the motor could never come apart, and/or the the bearing could never be installed.
Understood? Simple, right?
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@PatRocks So your saying the difference between my motors is due to tolerance and that the outer race is only a lose fiction fit so that they can be disassembled easily.
The makes sense as you may need them to be serviced . . . however my concern is that if the bell spins without the bearing spinning then the bearing is not actually supporting the bell and eventually this will cause wear.
Additionally if there is space between the bell and bearing then I guess the motor is no longer sealed?
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Yes wear was my first thoughtâŚas I have 5 news ones waiting for me when I get back home next Friday night
So what is the purpose of this bearing? It seems to just be there for extra weight.
There is a smaller gap between the motorâs internals and the outside world than Iâve seen before, but no it isnât gas-tight. Also, I donât believe in metal shields for esk8 bearings. I would have chosen contact-rubber-seals for this application⌠but I havenât founded any manufacturing companies yet.
@ducktaperules , the 3 internal bearings support the shaft and attached bell. The outer (4th) bearing prevents skewed alignment between the motor shaft and bell center points from impacts and etc. And even without rubber seals, to me it seems to be a great way to keep anything larger than micro-dust (seriously) from getting into the motor.
Seriously great way to close the gap, just my thoughts!
EDIT: These motors are very well SHIELDED, but they are not SEALED. If you submerged one, it would fill up with water. But if you skate above the surface, youâll be okay (which is basically all I do, metaphorically speaking)
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the sealed maytech 63xx motors not super tight gas sealed as well. I would go so far to say most of the âsealedâ motors, doesn´t mater from which producer, are not totally sealed.
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@PatRocks your response is very useful. if I donât plan on disassembling this any time soon would a small drop of locktight between the bearing and bell be a good idea to make sure they donât rub during use?
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The bearing contacting the bell is its purpose! I definitely donât recommend locktite in this one single case. Itâs there to keep things on track, and can pretty much remain stationary with the motor spinning and no worries. Hit a bump, and the can is supported! Smooth sailing, and the bearing is stationary. Itâs more of an added support than anything else but donât locktite it
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Sorry guys, been out of the shop for a few days and I will get caught up soon.
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Pitchforks are being sharpened and torches are being lit.
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Im sure, under the gunâŚ
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Fitting tolerances are a pain to deal with with hobby level tools 
well thatâs one clever motor, still like the big bearing.
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I have checked with our engineer. The outer ring of the bearing cannot be glued to motor can. Otherwise the motor can not be taken apart for checking or repair, and it will be a one-time motor. Because motor can diameter has tolerance in production. Some bearings outside can turn and some canât. Its role is to support motor can. It does not affect the motor using. Please be assured.
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@EileenMaytech thanks for confirming. Glad itâs ok cause i cut the shafts now anyway 
Running buttery smooth so far
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Yay, thatâs EXACTLY what I had said! I love that weâre on the same page.
@ducktaperules , have you disassembled your motor? Sounds like some extra noise going on⌠I had loose magnets on one of mine, maybe check for that? Should be obvious if you take it apart, any signs of contact?
Edit: actually that sounds like crap. Is it just me or does that sound like debris in a washing machine??
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