(new) maytech mto-6880 190kv ha c3 (for the hard core)

That’s second on my list. longer sensor wires and the correct connector.

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I think the values not so wrong.
I wrote with maytech a while ago about there unsealed 8085 and they sent me similar specs.
But would be great if you non the less will ask once more :ok_hand:

PSA: these motors have phase wires that appear to be coated!! While this may be a good thing, soldering to them is a bitch. Any info on this suspicion @hyperIon1 or @EileenMaytech ? I literally spent an hour trying to resolder these connections :sob::rage:

Thanks!

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Coated, Interesting…
I noticed they felt different but I haven’t soldered with them yet. Is it solder? or on the entire wire?

I noticed the wires themselves felt different than my other maytech motors

It appears to be laminated wire all the way to the existing bullet connectors. I’m researching the best/easiest solution atm… which appears to be using solvent to melt the enamel away. I’ll update here tonight when I get home (if I’m able to get it to work lol).

For now, I would advise against cutting these wires unless you are experienced in soldering laminated wires!! Anyone with knowledge of this process, please share!!.

On a similar note, the 5.5mm connectors that come with the motors are the highest quality bullets I’ve ever seen! And the phase wires, while currently irritating me TREMENDOUSLY, seem extremely robust! Really haven’t been this excited in a very long time.

Or frustrated

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I think they are just enameled phase wire extending out from the motor. it’s best to desolder the existing bullets than cutting them off.

Use Aspirin (mask respirator)…

(not my video)

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Just found an old thread from @lox897 about that! Using Asperin to remove enamel off motor wires

But I’m seeing controversial feedback on the rc forums. Have you done this @JohnnyMeduse ?

Yeah I’ve done it once, because I didn’t had any other choice, did the same mistake as you. It did work but was still a PITA and I suggest to use original Aspirin which work way better than the generic ones.

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I really can’t wait to try out these motors. Gotta see if they’ll clear on my hummie deck mounted drop with psychotiller mounts. Otherwise they’ll go on the shuggah deck.

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Solvent sucks for this. I read up on this and solder pot seems to be the best method. You can get them pretty cheap or improvise something.

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@deucesdown thanks brother! The more I’m reading I would tend to concur. I WILL figure this crap out, possibly tonight and post results asap. Thanks everyone

I’ve had decent luck, with really small enameled wire, with getting a big blob of solder on my biggest soldering iron tip, and dipping the wire.

For solder pots, if you go this way, get the smallest one! The big ones will need more solder, and take more time to heat up and cool down.

I bought the Tenma 150w on Amazon, as it looks a lot more robust than the generic blue and yellow ones. But it has no temperature control, and oh boy it gets way crazy hot. I bought a router speed control from harbor freight – on the lowest setting it’s still about 40w and still too hot, but much better. Sorry, I don’t have a motor lead to test with!

EDIT it ended up costing a chunk, for the 63/37 solder bar, router speed control, and paste flux. But it makes tinning wire ends much much easier if doing a bunch, like custom motor phase wire lengths, or series connections for battery subpacks (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSIhIGkQOsA)

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@hummie has very good tool for removing the coating.

edit:

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At this point I am wondering if this should be a split topic, but this magnet wire is tough as hell. Like, insanely tough, Nothing I’ve tried so far has had effect. Scraping, nothing. Soaked in Strip-x overnight, NOTHING. Torch and sandpaper, nada. Just brittle wires.

I tried a make-shift solder bath with a torch and a 5.5 bullet female, and got a possibly viable result, this seems to be the most promising method so far @deucesdown , thanks for that.

A thought occurs however: when the wire is cut, the tip is exposed and conductive. Anyone have an idea as to whether ‘just the tip’ of a wire is enough for an electrical connection? For this amount of current through a tiny amount of solder?? If it were a copper joint, no doubt, but solder? Kinda wishing I hadn’t cut these, glad I only cut one motor…

These wires do speak well of the windings though!! Ain’t a thing in the WORLD gonna short them out. F*cking durable insulation.

I wonder if cutting at a steep angle would expose a sufficient amount of wire :thinking::sob:. I hate it!!

edit: I am failing at this with a freekin 240W weller gun.

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With sufficient heat from a decent soldering iron and lots of solder should be able to melt the enamel off. you will see some black impurity flowing on the solder blob.

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My 6880 Engine :grimacing:

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6880 motor cables are extended directly from inside because the hole is too small for 3 silicone cables. And it also has one advantage that it won’t loose comparing to soldering silicone cables.

I consulted our engineer how to remove the coating:

  1. the easiest way is to grind each wire with sandpaper.
  2. (new) maytech mto-6880 190kv ha c3 (for the hard core) Please clean black impurity before solder new connectors.
  3. or use special paint remover.
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