Solvent sucks for this. I read up on this and solder pot seems to be the best method. You can get them pretty cheap or improvise something.
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@deucesdown thanks brother! The more I’m reading I would tend to concur. I WILL figure this crap out, possibly tonight and post results asap. Thanks everyone
I’ve had decent luck, with really small enameled wire, with getting a big blob of solder on my biggest soldering iron tip, and dipping the wire.
For solder pots, if you go this way, get the smallest one! The big ones will need more solder, and take more time to heat up and cool down.
I bought the Tenma 150w on Amazon, as it looks a lot more robust than the generic blue and yellow ones. But it has no temperature control, and oh boy it gets way crazy hot. I bought a router speed control from harbor freight – on the lowest setting it’s still about 40w and still too hot, but much better. Sorry, I don’t have a motor lead to test with!
EDIT it ended up costing a chunk, for the 63/37 solder bar, router speed control, and paste flux. But it makes tinning wire ends much much easier if doing a bunch, like custom motor phase wire lengths, or series connections for battery subpacks (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSIhIGkQOsA)
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At this point I am wondering if this should be a split topic, but this magnet wire is tough as hell. Like, insanely tough, Nothing I’ve tried so far has had effect. Scraping, nothing. Soaked in Strip-x overnight, NOTHING. Torch and sandpaper, nada. Just brittle wires.
I tried a make-shift solder bath with a torch and a 5.5 bullet female, and got a possibly viable result, this seems to be the most promising method so far @deucesdown , thanks for that.
A thought occurs however: when the wire is cut, the tip is exposed and conductive. Anyone have an idea as to whether ‘just the tip’ of a wire is enough for an electrical connection? For this amount of current through a tiny amount of solder?? If it were a copper joint, no doubt, but solder? Kinda wishing I hadn’t cut these, glad I only cut one motor…
These wires do speak well of the windings though!! Ain’t a thing in the WORLD gonna short them out. F*cking durable insulation.
I wonder if cutting at a steep angle would expose a sufficient amount of wire 
. I hate it!!
edit: I am failing at this with a freekin 240W weller gun.
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With sufficient heat from a decent soldering iron and lots of solder should be able to melt the enamel off. you will see some black impurity flowing on the solder blob.
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My 6880 Engine 
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6880 motor cables are extended directly from inside because the hole is too small for 3 silicone cables. And it also has one advantage that it won’t loose comparing to soldering silicone cables.
I consulted our engineer how to remove the coating:
- the easiest way is to grind each wire with sandpaper.
- https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/new-maytech-mto-6880-190kv-ha-c3-for-the-hard-core/74073/363?u=eileenmaytech Please clean black impurity before solder new connectors.
- or use special paint remover.
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Just wired it up and oh my God. Words fail, the power is indescribable it literally wants to spin the wheel against the pavement. This is the motor I’ve been waiting for, unbelievable
Thank you @hyperIon1 and thank you @EileenMaytech
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is this the normal 5:1 ratio or the mini version?
The orange is the normal Size gear, not the Small version.
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Today I’ll be trying something new, and dangerous. Frustrated again by the extreme quality of wire insulation in these motors (which is great, unless you wish to solder them), I’ve decided that I am going to use a molten-salt bath. Based on what I’ve been reading over the past few days, the most effective way to remove wire insulation seems to be molten LYE (sodium hydroxide) and table salt. Gotta be very hot, and risk of chemical burns is real. I will try to document this as much as possible today. but progress may be slow due to danger.
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Started a separate thread about stripping the wires. Now that I’m back on topic, and have both motors installed, let me say that I am truly astonished by the quality and power of this model. For the same current settings, these motors feel significantly more powerful than the 6374s I had previously. Wouldn’t matter what they cost, I’d pay it.
Here’s how i stripped the phase leads:
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After spending some time looking at various 80xx motor options including Maytechs, I think this may be the sweet spot for ATB price/performance - 6880 160kv. The 80xx motors are pretty much twice the price which I don’t get (materials and effort x 2 is not) and the pre-order price has jumped a couple of times on the last couple of days which is a turn-off.
I have to admit I missed the boat on this GB. Next time…
For now I’ll stick with the 6374/6384 in the hope there will be a future GB
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@banjaxxed if you find yourself in a position to buy a set of the maytech 6880s pull the f×cking trigger immediately
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I’m in the position, but I’m alone 
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Talk to @hyperIon1. He hooked it up with a pair outside of the group buy for what i think is still a pretty great price
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Need the EU thing, no urgency I can wait
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Are these 10 or 12mm shaft?
160 kV or 190 kV?