New! IP67 Rated BMS

where is the 12s version

@Deckoz have you gotten your hands on the BMS yet?

anyone have a verdict on these? was looking at ordering a 60a 8s one for my single drive spare parts build

@Deckoz have you used these yet? I am debating about using one of these or a D140 for a 10s6p I am doing right now. I have both on hand… Thoughts?

You should go live in Minneapolis for a season, bro. Looks like the Ocean flooded twin cities during winter.

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it has two things in chinese, near the balance port, top one says 25amp and botom one 8amp bms in picture its next to the balance port (Chinese): 25amp (CHinese): 8 Aamp

somebody knows what the botom one means and what the top one means?

nope but I got these

image

You could make any charge only bms waterproof just by dipping it in some material like plastic or resin probbably Just an idea tho

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i got the 8s version want to charge two 10Ah 4s lipo with it,

I made a 10s4p pack last night using one of these… seems okay for charging and I have it for charge only received_158595758425198

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your says 13(chinese)48v does that mean 13s input voltage 48volt? mine says 8(chinese)24V and i bought 8s but 8s is 33.6 fully and at 3.6v its 29v but input ojn bms is 24v please help me becouse i need to buy a powersupply

Yes; brush-on conformal coating to make ANY electronics waterproof

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Yeah those numbers never made sense to me either. Just buy thecharger you need for a full 8s which is 4.2x8. When I check their specs it says 54.6 for my 13s for full charge. My guess the number is for lipo cells another type other than lithium ion cells. Don’t worry, I’m going to use mine as 12s even which is possible. The way these work is whichever many are in series will be the charge voltage you need.

Nominal charge for lipo is 3.7. That times 8 gives you your 29 and a bit. So these numbers they mention are the nominal charge voltages for lipo.

but i can put 33.6 volts into it even though its says 24v? and can’t i use a 24 volt charger? those are a lot more easy to find

If you are using lithium ion cells with a nominal charge of 3.6 volts than no you will need a charger that charges to 33.6 volts or they will never fully charge.

Forget what the bms says. Your cells tell you charge me full to 4.2 volts each.

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haha I’m in Minneapolis too

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Which of those three pictured do you prefer?

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About to ask the same thing. Why have all three? If one is in my collection, which one should I go with?

I normally use some natural cure silicone for a similar purpose, but these lighter brush ons seem much better

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They all have different purposes.

The acrylic is thin and watery and gets in tight places very well, and makes a mess easily.

The silicone is higher temperature and thicker but thermally insulates more

The polyurethane is the thickest and makes a good substitute for wire insulation or something you will grab with your hands, like a loop key, or to put on top of a piece that rubs against another piece to physically space them apart.

A heatsink needs only a single coat of acrylic or it won’t be able to dissipate heat well.

Three 10AWG wires soldered together in a Y needs about 5 - 10 coats of polyurethane conformal coating, which is almost like you never cut the insulation off the wires in the first place.

I like coating circuit boards with acrylic in the hard to reach places, then finishing them with silicone.

They all glow under UV, so you can use a blacklight to check that you didn’t miss any places.

If you only get one, get acrylic. If you get two, get acrylic and silicone. If you get all three, the polyurethane one is rather useful… … and if you get zero, steal some clear nail polish from your sister/wife/girlfriend/mom/grandma and use that… maybe mix a tiny bit of acetone in it to thin it down first…

They are a lot better. Also remember to use multiple coats - don’t be afraid to use more than 2 coats.

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I got one of these little red fuckers, 13s. It’s nice and tiny, but the connector is JST-PH. Lol now I’m in a hole deciding on whether to buy 14 pin PH housings and sockets, putting XH on the pack and making an adapter, reusing the housing on the wire that came with the bms with my own wiring and crimped terminals (the included is of course too short), or splicing a bunch of stuff.

I hated working with JST-PH for the vesc, so tiny and fiddly and the wires in the gauges that fit the crimp terminals break so easily.

And I have a bunch of charging/measuring stuff that’s all XH.

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