Here is my honest opinion…If you have the means everyone should have a few boards for different conditions and moods, I have two and they are polar opposites, I have my all weather, all terrain board that I use both 8" Kenda slicks and 9" MTB tyres with studs… I live in an all seasonal climate (Minneapolis) and in the tough cold / raining conditions or in the summer I want to trail ride… the pneumatic board is the go too. It works and is dependable and fun…as well when the conditions are warmer and roads dry the @Hummie build is my go too. It is more responsive and carves much better and that said…one is not better then the other it all depends on conditions, terrain and mood.
My own personal experience is the only bad board is one that is not reliable or lacking torque / power…to look for a board to respond only to bog down or not give you the power you desire is a real bummer…
I will be adding one more board that sits in the middle of the extremes not built yet however going all out and we will share once complete…
It’s a 12 slot stator. I shouldn’t say anything about why the 12x14 is so widely used but power factor isn’t the term and guessing. I don’t have the education background but i just pick out the important bits when I can and it seems the usual bldc stator design and pole count and the concentrated winding (just one phase type per slot) we are all using…these are motors without “coasting” in mind. I guess esc plane and car people sit on the throttle. WOT. Haha. All the time. Wide open. That’s their lingo if u didn’t know. And the stator shape and the cylindrical wire and behind the magnets. Hobby king and every place practically is just using cylindrical wire and even at max fill it would be like 80%. More so it’s all the stator design that I think I’ll want to change and maybe off the shelf square wire. And that could be easy to get done for a couple thousand bucks. Molds made to cut the stators. But first get a couple epdm cut to test. I’m looking for ideas. I know soon it’s all I’ll think about. And how to get the magnets in quickly. I’ve never seen good video. And I thought the thick bell would fully reflect the magnetic field but doesn’t and really want to do it w hallbach. All those motors we see have such thin backiron. https://etd.ohiolink.edu/!etd.send_file?accession=osu1440086585&disposition=inline
No, i was asking about the restiance against water in foc and bldc and if hub motors made a difference. And can I use these hubs on a slightly wet road and on a path with a little sand.
Bldc motor has no other mechanical part besides the bearing that wears down. Brush motor rely on the brushes for polarity switching so it doesnt do well in water unless sealed. Brushes also wears do over time.
In theory you should not have issues with water in the motors, since there’s no sensors. With sensors, it’s a bit more daring. But even then, the plan is glue after sensor board is attached to the stator and hub. So it should be fine. Water is only bad if the surfaces didn’t have a finish (but they do, so it shouldn’t rust), or there’s an open circuit that can the water can bridge and short. Since everything is dipped in motor winding epoxy, I can’t see where a short water occur so it should be fine. Your battery and esc are the real danger, since you aren’t dipping those in epoxy (creating a seal essentially).
U could run the motors completely submerged. The magnet wire comes out of the motor so the short potential would be under the hestshrink there where it comes out n connected to the leads. If u really want to ride under water u should take the shrink off and paint the connections.
I might sell my current 4 motors if hummie has any left over stators. I’m thinking next set will be 5 turners, thicker gauge, with the sensor boards. I’m aiming for around 100kv so I can at least get up to 35 mph.
@Hummie I know this is probably not gonna happen due to the cost of making/pouring molds, but have you considered making front wheels that match the gray color of the back? I think it would look so much better.
I’d love to get those wheels made grey but that’s maybe 11000 bucks to make happen. If I can make the money on Kickstarter.
I know a lot of people want to go like 50mph with these but they still need to be tested as is and the centrifugal force on the spinning tire could be too much and they could literally fly off or something. It would likely need a core. In the future I’d like to get a 91 with a core but a giant tire on a direct drive is making it harder on a direct drive motor.
If u really want to ride under water u should take the shrink off and paint the connections.
This is what one should get with 75 kv hubs at 12s