New Hummie Hubs!

Theres basically 4 stages to assembly once a wheel is made and magnets are glued in the can:

  • Winding to stator
  • Epoxying stator to steel hub
  • Dipping windings in motor winding epoxy (special stuff made exactly for this application)
  • Final assembly with bearings and retaining fluid and wheel

The two hummie on the truck (one is in the wheel) shown in the picture above are the ones I wound 2 days ago, and we epoxied them to the stator last night. Once hummie figures out the curing temp and time of this winding epoxy, we’ll do the 3rd and 4th step pretty quickly.

In the mean time (might be until Monday when we can call them), I’m winding more motors and epoxying them to the steel hubs.

These guys are half the resistance of the old motors. This means they should run much cooler and more efficiently. The stator is double the size, so it will take a much stronger magnetic field to over saturate the stators and make them go nuclear, as the smaller motors did.

Really curious to see how they ride. Should be very soon. 4wd should crush any board with these.

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How wide will the setup be? Similar to caliber 2s or closer to TBs 218mm trucks?

It’s a match in width with the MOTors being the same as the centrax wheels on 195 trucks, what the other truck is

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Any news guys ?

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Working on testing and comparing winds. I want to do a 15 turn or 14 turn with 20 awg or maybe 19 awg wire dlrk delta wind. Hummie wants to do an 8 turner with dlrk wye wind and 16 awg wire. I think the 15 turner with 20 awg is good enough, and is what I’m doing for mine. That yields half the resistance of the old motors (which should mean half of the heat) while increasing the copper amount by about 40% and stator size is doubled. The 19 awg will be better, if 15 turns can be fit in. Waiting for 19 awg wire to try though.

Wheels are being made as we speak and waiting for the wheels from abec, which should be coming very soon (ready to be shipped).

We could rush things, and put together a good motor that will work (as I am doing with mine), or take a step back and asses all options so that we can get the best copper fill. We’ve opted not to rush the process and try our options before committing.

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So quick update. More to come tomorrow. First tests today with the 4wd. All was great. Max temp was 131 F, instead of 260 F with the small motors. Torque is insane. Braking is insane. Video and pictures to come. But all is good. These motors will not overheating like the ones in the past did.

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Thats exciting news! What KV are these motors? 100ish?

How is the quality of the urethane on the hubs?

Wake up you two, we need to see this!!! @Hummie @evoheyax

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Exactly …and please do some nice hill climbing !! :slight_smile:

  1. Filbert between Leavenworth and Hyde (31.5% grade)
  2. 22nd between Church and Vicksburg (31.5% grade)
  3. Jones between Union and Filbert (29% grade)
  4. Duboce between Buena Vista and Alpine (27.9% grade)
  5. Jones between Green and Union (26% grade)
  6. Webster between Vallejo and Broadway (26% grade)
  7. Duboce between Alpine and Divisadero (25% grade)
  8. Jones between Pine and California (24.8 grade)
  9. Fillmore between Vallejo and Broadway (24% grade)

We will climb some stuff with them.

@BigBoyToys These in particular are about 82 kv on the backs, and the fronts are about 85 kv. Not sure the top speed (didn’t measure, was more concerned about testing acceleration.

Despite not having put sensors in them yet, they can start from a stand still on a slight hill still. And when I mean start, I don’t mean struggle, I mean start from a standstill without sensors with so much power. We’re debating at this point if the sensors are worth the extra complication and more breakable parts. At the end of the day, simpler sometimes is better.

And the sensors would add just a tad bit (like saying you’d take 3.1 seconds for a 0-20 acceleration vs 3.4). Maybe, you’d get 5-10% better acceleration with sensors. But the motors are so powerful as it is, that most won’t notice or feel the need (even me, who loves sensors, is content without them here). Nothing like the old motors. Even if you do push too, it’s the ever so slightest push. The old ones needed a big push or two. These, even if going 2 rpm, will always find their position and accelerate well without sensors.

Video and photos coming soon… (like, very soon)…

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Let’s start it off with some photos of the complete. Now outfitted with a direct fet vedder switch, thanks to @goldenHusky. Also, using bms now with 12s 8ah zippy lipo. One thing to note: you’ll notice theres only 3 screws holging the plate on instead of 6. 3 is the lowest you should go, but 6 is strongly recommend, and is how many they will be shipped with. We were just rushing to test already :stuck_out_tongue:

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Working on video right now… Might take an hour or so before it shows on youtube.

luke’s motors were an early winding before we knew what was possible. these here are 16awg and a hundred grams heavier with lower resistance and seem the best potential. probably will hit 34mph while his we figured were doing max 27mph. 7 turn terminated …the better wye way so as no stray voltages between phases as with delta. the rubber rocks and would love to compare it’s rebound to what’s out there if only could get a bouncy ball’s worth to do the simple comparison. the sound and feel of them when flicked or dropped screams rebound and I really like how the core is working. We haven’t put many miles on them at all yet but I know from trying to destroy my dud pours that theyre much better than the stuff before. a bit of the mold line on them with my bad mold that needs to get worn down in the center with these (not in the future design coming) but other than that they rode great.
i’ll get these winds running today!

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A little example of what these guys can do. Hard to get video that shows the acceleration accurately though. I have no doubt that in 4wd, these are far more power than the raptor 2, which has a dual drive. With better copper fill, they will only get better. And if you look at my pictures, you’ll see a lot of space is still left.

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Please tell me the clear thane is an option! Looks sick!!

The thane is really much clearer than looks here and really the mold has been the limit. It’s almost water clear. I’m totally in agreement on the clear and am getting a super smooth mold made for the new design

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Personally I’d prefer if the hubs matched the front wheels…

I want this too. It will be a tricky thing to do, since you add the tiniest drop of coloring, and it changes color soooo much. But for those who want matching, this is the goal.

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Any new test info? more video?