More commutation per wheel revolution. Like 3 to 1 ratio if bithbtypical 12 tooth w 14 mags. But that’s commutations n maybe the frequency were talking about is in each commutation. Even then a hub would have 3x the time to complete the pwm forming of the effective voltage. I think the hub should be much easier on esc. So said vedder
One thing in the fundamental frequency, other is the switching one
On hubs the fundamental is lower, but the switching is whatever you set, 30 KHz in this case. This 30 KHz is used to form a sine wave, through PWM, of the ERPM your motor is currently running
exactly:
does not affect switching freq.
Ok and the erpm would be lower for a speed on hubs than with gearing right so lower fundamental…and then the period of time within that fundamental will be longer and allowing the switching more time within each fundamental no?
You can say that you can form a “more perfect” sine wave at lower ERPM, but since the switching is way higher than the ERPM it doesn’t really make any diference
So same switching frequency will happen regardless of the fundamental or rpm?
What kv are the motors ?
Kv=Speed/(Voltage * 1,414 * 0,95)
1,414 to convert Rms voltage to peak voltage and 0,95 as a “fudge factor”
Edit: sorry @Blacksheep I somehow did read “what IS” and not what kv are… 
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If it’s expressed in hertz, that’s n times per second. So no no matter erpm or kv or whatever, “n times per second” is not affected.
Motors are just over 70kv. U can run them on the bldc tool live data and look at the voltage n the erpm. Devide the erpm by 7 and divide by the voltage and then at 95% of kv as Vesc only goes to 95%…which is a loss of efficiency I believe as at 100% duty cycle there’s no switching losses
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Yes, I think the BLDC mode has variable switching frequency.
This is what makes the famous VESC sound when starting from stand still
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Thanks hummie, just got these looks great. Will need to solder phase lead bullets and be good.
If anyone gets there first and has some suggested vesc settings that they tuned to work best, please share base config. If I remember, depending on bearing choice, these may not turn enough to do motor detect until used for awhile. Early folks finding that to be the case as well?
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For japanese bearing. they work fine out of the box. I’m using 60/-60 motor amp on regular mode, and 100 when I want to race. For regular bearing. they are packed with grease and I have heard that they cog in FOC. once you have enough miles on them it should be fine. or you can just put them on a bench and just a run for a while to loosen that grease.
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You can run motor detect. I ran into a lot of trial and error but got it on the road.
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Yeah I don’t think you guys want these motors. They were made by a madman.
Jk, they are sick. Only set them up with fairly basic settings, haven’t had a chance to experiment. I have high temp grease shielded contact bearings and passed test.
Only got a chance to cruise in a parking lot, can’t wait to ride tomorrow.
Thanks @Hummie, worth the wait.
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Wait where r you from?
From Florida
For a second I thought you r riding tmr means coming to the BaeSk8 groupride.
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Can someone make a tutorial on how to take them apart ?
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To take the hub off the hanger. Use a 8mm hex key to left hand turn the nut at the shaft.
Bearings are glued with that green stuff so it will be hard.
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