Dude you forgot the NSFW tag on these pics…I’m going to need a second
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I’ve been looking at the size of stators for different motors and they are usually 10mm less diameter than the entire motor and the length is typically half of what the motor length is, so a 4752 stator is like a 57104! My God these have to be so insanely powerful! A 6384 motor is like 4000W, this has to be probably even higher! Damn, if you were to set these up like Carvon’s they would go like 60mph, lol! Ok I’m definitely canceling my Carvon order for these now. That’s a no brained, these are like the Ferrari of motors, hand built by a master craftsman with the best materials, rather than a modified Turnigy motor, lol!
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the windings are only 9 turns with the wye and the other motor being only 7 turns, so lining it all up is just done visually. it has to be lined up or doesn’t fit! some motor manufacturers like scorpion label the motor by the stator size so a 53xx scorpion motor will really be a 63 outer diameter. wish they all did it by stator size.
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Yeah that was one of the motors I used as reference.
Congrats on the motors, they look awesome! Whats the final weight of a truck with motors?
I have a question about the stators. I’ve seen the 12T 14P versions, and lately I’ve seen the 24T 28P versions, and at first I didn’t think there was a difference except one seems much more difficult to wind, lol. However I’ve heard from various places that the 24T one is more powerful. Can you explain any differences they have you know of and any benefits, pro’s and cons, from one to the other?
whats the copper wire diameter your using Hummie?
I think it’s 17ga.
in my research you wont get any more power or torque for one vs the other. you may have more teeth but theyre smaller so it balances out as far as torque and power. more teeth does create less cogging though when rolling unpowered which is nice but once powered not any different. Maybe it would have better control at the lowest speeds but I find no problem rolling unsensored at like 1.5mph and no cogging. A downside of many teeth is they are now physically weaker obviously, but maybe that’s not an issue, so the only downside would be the increased erpm at a certain speed so more iron losses. if you spin your motor on the bldc tool and spin it full speed and look at the current draw it will reveal all the core losses. those are there based on speed alone so the more switching and more erpm more losses. I’m not saying more teeth is worse though and have thought about getting a stator made that would have more teeth.
I think this wire is 1.2mm. it’s 17awg or 16awg at like 1.4mm I guess
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If you look at the scorpion catalog as a reference:
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All their helicopter motors have 10 poles and 12 stator arms. They market them as having the highest power to weight. They generally all use a wye wind and claim 89% efficiency. 16s max. Higher kv.
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The airplane motors have 14 poles and 12 stator arms. They are marketed as having the highest efficiency (94%). They generally all use a delta wind. 12s max. Lower kv.
The helicopter motors wound with 1 piece of 1.4mm copper 6T+5T YY are rated for 14s 110a/5400w cont. 200a/9600w burst (2 sec). All there 1.2mm wound motors are rated to 12s…
Even with only a pair I think your battery is going to be the limiting factor in most situations running such beefy motors. More so with 4wd.
I think if you want better start up upping the voltage would be the way to go, although that is not practical with the current control equipment.
Looking sick dude 
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How would these compare to Inboard’s Manta Ray drives? Wattage? Top speed? Hill Climbing?
I’d go with Scorpion hands down. Those are premium, high end motors.
Read the thread, all of this has been answered
Hey @Hummie is it possible to buy 1 motor, low KV with urethane? I came across this idea and have to admit like it very much 
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That picture just gave me an idea. A small hub motor wheel turning a large pneumatic wheel. Is that what you are thinking?
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Lol I just made a thread about that a few weeks back.
I meant turning it from the outside like the bike picture.
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Oh, my bad. I would be skeptical about that setup. I don’t even know the ratio, but let’s say that is like a 30:1 ratio. Now needing a lower kv for increased torque here makes sense, however, the lower the kv, the slower the motor… So in my opinion, with the huge ratio between to two wheels, along with a low kv motor running that, I would be amazed if that setup would go even 10mph. I may be wrong, I a bit newer to this, but that seems like the main problems with that setup… I would personals recommend getting like a 8072 sized motor and hooking it up to the rear wheel. You’ll definitely get some good performance there.
looks like a lot of work in that you’d have to make a mount for the bike. and then a friction drive is not so nice to me being inefficient I think. making a mount using these motors would be work and time when you could get a motor designed for it with a mounting bracket or a bike hub motor sounds ideal to me. but my dad is always asking me why I don’t make such a thing. not interested in doing it but if you are I’d like to see it and can help with the design
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Someone already tried that here somewhere an failed because of not enough friction. The motor is slipping all the time. You need a strong mount with some pressure for that.
A better design in my oponion is something like that:
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