Buy FOCBOX Unity

New Hummie Hubs!


Thank you! Do I have to do silicone mold or I can print it because I don’t need good finish surface.


Pylonflyer is the expert and I was just asking him about printing molds not long ago. He says you can do it but you need to prep the mold really well so it doesn’t stick if youre pouring pu, but silicone is pretty cheap and much easier to work with. Only reason I wanted to do it was for a very thick resin that would need to be sucked into a hard mold. but maybe there’s a filament that would make a nice stick-free soft mold. I know there’s programs that help to design a mold for printing too. but that’s just the info I remember from Troy @Pylonflyer and hopefully he can tell more.


Watch the Drone building video in the playlist to learn about 3D Printed molds. Yes it’s possible, yes it works pretty good, but there are limitations and you need to use lots of mold release or things will stick.


the main parts came and looking really good and a big relief. Built one up w the bearings and snapped the c-clip in and it’s solid with no play any direction and the parts were cut very nicely. give me 2 days to get wheels done and i’ll put up a bunch of pics. thanks all of you in this with me for being so patient as this took forever


So glad I hopped on this Hummie train. These motors are looking awesome. Thanks for the hard work Hummie.


man I always sound like I’m mumbling on camera. maybe I am. another video later when I’m done and ill enunciate better


Looking solid :slight_smile: cant wait to tear around on these :slight_smile:


What color are the front wheels and hub wheels?


don’t know yet. natural first. pretty transparent. I’m gunna throw in some of psychotiller and longhairedboy mom’s hairs (actually the same mother), a picture of the blessed Mary, and a scorpion for luck.


“You like this coat BuckNasty? It’s made of your mother’s pubic hair.”Player-Haters-Ball-Quotes-007


Super excited for these hubs. You think they will be shipped and arrived by February. I got my whole setup ready for those motors, then off to try them


bear with me people, the axle in the pic above was cut wrong and they didn’t do the left-handed thread on the end so I’m doing that myself and bringing it down to 8mm at the end. did one last night but it will be a couple days we’re waiting for new normal left hand coupling nuts to come from McMaster for me to just get going (you’ll get the custom capped nut and not my make-do)… it’s all ok and it’ll work better actually with more room so nut doesn’t possibly get jammed.
getting the parts ready for the mold now and took a bit longer with getting fits right but almost there.

I’m always saying things will be done too early I know but I’ll definitely post some decent video tonight showing the state of things and what the little hurdle is. I’m not discouraged and we’re good. I’ll show you tonight.

just waiting for a couple of these to show, and the dies to match, and will have wheels by then for sure and will be rolling in like 3 or 4 days max.

the manufacturer made it out like they were done everything and I’m still not sure what the true state of things is with them and last they told me they were waiting on how this parts for 4 motors they sent are. safer, but these parts are good I told them and I’ll get the details on time with them. patience. it will be good. really liking the tight press fittings on 3 of the four bearing placements and the c-clip is huge and snapped in and not a hair of lateral play. this is what makes hubs awesome: these things are solid connections all round


Keeping it honest, I like it hummie…I cannot wait to see what you got in store…


damn she says 10 days for them to do the finish. I did see boxes of the parts. bear with me a couple days to get these ones I have going to keep you calm. coming. its wet outside today anyway.

a video another day since my girlfriend with the camera doesn’t want to talk to me today,and me her.


Any time I need a bearing pressed in that is an interference fit like what I’m seeing either a threaded rod with washers on each end(if there is a hole running through the body) or simply using some jaws with rubber pads.

Otherwise you can hit the big tools like jaw and other such pullers. A hex socket the size of the bearing ring is your friend.

In this case if you could put the bearing in a ziplock baggie(@longhairedboy probably has lots he can lend :joy:)

The body can be heated if possible then there’s a chance it will just fall on without pressure. If force is used then only on the outer race not the inner race ever or you risk brinnelling

Here’s a 11cm bearing, it needs a baggie


With an ID that large you could easily use an induction heater or a small oven (toaster oven?) but you’d definitely want to heat it, not beat it


@banjaxxed @ATLesk8
y’all are too much sometimes :joy::joy::joy:


At work when putting bearings into steel or aluminum, we just use a butane torch, give it a minute or two, and the bearing drops right in. Be careful about applying a torch to a bearing though, it’ll burn all of the lubrication out, and won’t last as long, even if you re-lube it.


At work it sounds like youre burning all the lube out and it wont last long! but you help me out.

I’ve got another wheel on the printer and be polishing both up tonight and tomorrow molding will be going on. The core print took many shots to get it as tight as possible.
Interference fit for the stator on the hub too which I also really like.

a screw up was that this truck hanger, which I got 200 of, and it was supposed to be a left hand thread at the end and it wasn’t. Luckily it’s an easy solve and I’ve found I can just use a hand die to cut from the 10mm axle straight down to a left handed 8. I’ve ordered the new matching nuts and they assure me 10 days and will be done and sent with the main parts. I will haunt them and count days for them. 9 more

in the meantime wheels will be done and I’ve got a workable nut I’ll be making out of some coupling nut


They look nice man!