reminds me of a light saber 
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Duuu there’s an easy solution which Dan and Devin brought up and can stay at the 12mm axle just not thread it all the way to the aluminum and then slightly drill out the motor hub at 12mm where it will butt the aluminum hanger so the point of pretty much all the stress is supported by a true 12mm axle. So that’s the plan.
Getting them to make 40 of the hangers with the 4140 and this different threading hopefully in the near future but for the rest of the motors going out I’ll do this alteration and think it will make a world of a difference. Nice to hear your ideas guys if anyone has any thoughts on this before they go under the knife. So will drill the motor hub hole 12mm diameter for maybe on two or three mms. Two? Three?
(The axle above of course isn’t a match for anything and will thread same thread on there all the way until 3 or 4 mm from the aluminum
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@Hummie i wondered… can a pair of your hubs climb the steepest street in san francisco? according to wikipedia that would be the 31.5% (17.5°) slope on filbert street between hyde and leavenworth…
so i set the chart up to show (2) 73kv hub motors with 84mm tires, 100a motor current limit, 60a battery current limit per motor at 46v & 200lb rider + board.
I was surprised to find that the chart suggests you could accelerate up to and sustain 27mph straight up that 31.5% (17.5°) slope. check out where the red line, bottom left chart (vehicle thrust pounds – 2 motors) dips below the purple line, bottom left chart (31.5% slope + wind drag force pounds) @ ~27mph. does that sound ballpark accurate?
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I would make this way deeper, 10mm or more, doing just 3mm you are still almost at the maximum moment point
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This week! The tap comes today and I have all these sets done and just need to drill them and rethread an axle n out to u. This week.
Drill them to 10mm then.
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how many mm of threading will remain on the stator tube after 10mm is drilled?
20mm I think it is after ten removed
Sorry for the slow up. I found out there’s three types of taps for each size and I want the taper one not the butt. Anyway coming on Monday and then can finish these motors then send them out and a quick video
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Hey guys. Life got a bit complicated, but found time to move this build forward.
It’s 15s A123 (49.5v nominal 54v full). focboxes are stock firmware with M 60/-60 B 30/-12 switching frequency 30k 57v batt max 130a abs limit
I’m still on stock bushings, so I didn’t have the nuts to let it all out. I got to 28mph easy with these settings (200lb). Tons of poke, very good brakes (83mm wheels must help with that).
Some numbers: 53v (down to 50v, sag to 41.1v) 2500w M 84a B 59a 40degC max 30wh/mile
I think I’m already happy with this performance! It feels every bit as good as 2x6354 10s4p, accelerating and braking. I have a lot of untapped performance available. This gonna be fun. 
Things I still need to do:
- riptide bushings (I have them, just gotta swap them in)
- @ackmaniac firmware (thank you man!)
- 100a/-80a motor max
- 50a/-20a batt
- maybe bump the max battery voltage a hair
- maybe bump abs current max a bit
- double check all the erpm settings
- replace the missing screw on front truck doh!
- wire loom phase wires
- housing for loop key
- charge port
Oh btw the 1/4" aluminum plate for the focboxes were too much. Replaced with 1/8".
I should wait until it’s had a few dozen miles but, thanks @hummie amazing stuff! Thanks @pshaw @Deckoz for pushing the voltage barrier.
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I’m so happy to see you followed through and kept the shipping labels on. That’s great. 
And thanks for posting your settings!
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Really like the pull cord on n off on top. Not so clean in this instance (maybe I’ll print One just fits the baseplate ) but got to be the easiest. And ur saying a button there would be easier and it would be until it breaks! I have yet to see a reliable switch. (Looking forward to trying the 6.6s).
What are those motor plugs n why not just bullets? Like ur velcroed holder.
Tool should be here tomorrow and and give me this week. Other taps come later in the week. No problem. I have 15 sets here almost done.
I’m really tickled by how it worked out. Proudly on display forever 
Why? Better insulation and mechanical separation, will survive some abrasion, less likely to pull out with 3 ganged connections, can’t mess up the order of the phases once it’s on there.
If you look close there’s a printed wire organizer in there between the bms and focboxes. Been thinking forever on how to get control of the bird’s nest that always seems to happen.
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i need those hubs lol
And I want to give them to u.
Ok the plugs yes sounds safer. Common dangerous shorting.
I wonder if ur pushing inductance high for the big capacitor with the long battery wire with the plug.
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What do you mean my wire loom phase wires?
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Where’s ur other goofy pic with closeup n smile?
IM using my hearts 
pairing w insults.
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I’ve been wondering too. the positive is making a really long run. shiver… I’ll read up again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU7EKPC
I bought a few types – this stuff seems much better than the typical. Somewhat sealed, and much easier/nicer to deal with. Tesa tape or self fusing silicone tape (they throw some in with the loom) to seal the ends.
No actually I’m keeping the loop key. I’m just gonna make it nicer, with probably a pull cord for emergency shut off.
I’m starting to play with bms’s (the smart ones), and e-switches (rated for 100a or more). Still don’t trust them lol.
@Hummie, when are you going live on KickStarter and will you be shipping to Australia? Also, here are some hearts (no insult)
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