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New Hobbyking motor - 6374 sensored


#284

no pics; we just spoke over a live chat and he claimed he talked to hobbyking and they said there is no retaining circlip, only the magnets hold the can to the stator


#285

unfortunately no link, guy was on an instagram live video and i asked him why he wasnt using the sk8 motors anymore and he told me verbally


#286

That’s not hard to fix, you just cut a groove in the shaft or add a shaft collar. They probably didn’t use a circlip in case it would hit on a motor mount


#287

It’s my first build too so didn’t want the hassle of messing around. I won’t be using foc anyway so no much difference aside from it being better protected from the elements but the sk3 seems to cope well regardless


#288

And what FOC has to do with it?


#289

Sk8 is sensored sk3’s aren’t. My post related to the advice abenny gave to me and wether to get the sk8 or sk3 motor


#290

Can you discuss about this more? Is there a tutorial/video on how this can be done?


#291

Of course!

If your mount has a large opening to pass the shaft through, ypu can use a shaft collar, like this.

Or you can cut a groove in the shaft, post 5

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1079423-How-to-repair-an-electric-motor

One thing to be aware of is to not have the circlip above the mounting surface if your motor mount has a narrow pass through.

The Racerstar motor does a good job of recessing it.


#292

@Eboostin Wait… so for what purpose that “collar” ring can be used?

I got one in sk3 5055 kit as well… wasnt sure what is its purpose… only option i see now, is ir axle is really long, maybe it can go at end of axle to stop pulley from moving sideways


#293

It is used for the same purpose as a circlip, you can use one or the other. If you use the collar, you have to make a small dimple in the shaft for the grub screw @Okami


#294

Ok guys the can should not wiggle in and out. The problem is it’s not being used with the rest of the hobbyking kit. There is a brass bushing that slides on the motor shaft first. Then the pulley. When installing the pulley you need to take up end play in the motor can and shaft. I set mine with just a tad bit of clearance. Maybe .3mm to .5mm of end play after installing pulley. Lock down the pulley and check for free end play movement if your using something other than the stock hobbyking components.


#295

Hello everyone, this is my first participation, I hope to act in the right way. I have enjoyed three of these engines. My first configuration was with the D5035-125kv and the experience was quite even, but adjusted with 12S and 36 - 15 teeth. Currently I have mounted a dual configuration facing the same axis with two SK8 6364 192kv and the power is great, although I have noticed that the displacement of the stator causes the belt to move. I would like to ask you if the fact that one of the engines had more resistance could give me intermittent acceleration and braking failures. I have them connected by Can-bus.


#296

I will disassemble and reassemble everything again and make sure everything’s attached and connected properly. And I do have the HK kit parts from the mechanical(motor, pulleys, retainers, etc) to the electrical (VESC, batteries, etc)


#297

Nice work on this setup! What kind of speeds are you getting?

Also, what wheel pulleys are those?


#298

Sorry, I’ve uploaded the same photo twice. The gears are printed. these are 40 teeth and 15 in the engine. The maximum speed to which I have dared have been 54 km / h although I am sure that I still had gas. I’m doing tests and one is printed in Abs and another in Nylon. The truth is that the result is similar. Before I had it with 36 teeth and the gas was endless.


#299

damn, what fillament did you use? pics :smiley: ?


#300

Really want to buy the set of Motor, mount, pulley, motor retainer for my first set up.
But the pulley set is on backstock atm :cry:


#301

I’d go with the tried and true sk3. If you have any experience with motors, maybe buy some high quality bearings to replace the stock ones. Bearings are the only issue I’ve had with mine, though problems didnt arise till 2 years of riding a single motor. Almost worth just buying a whole new motor every year because of how relatively inexpensive they are


#302

Once you mount the motor put the long brass tube on the shaft first. Then I would insert key into the keyway and slide pulley onto shaft. At this point I would push in on can and in on pulley to be sure its 100% together. Then maybe back off just a fraction of a mm. So that once the pulley is tightened up the motor can, will just barely move in and out. You could prob have the clearance tight as well but sometimes just the right amount of slop can be a good thing. I hope this makes sense and helps… I’m a noob… but a noob with a hobbyking kit. lol

edit: if belt alignment is off gonna have to move the entire mount.

The long brass tube comes with the motor in its bolt bag.

You can see in this picture the long brass tube inserted into the mount side of the motor shaft.


#303

I found the culprit.

Those 3 bolts were so loose maybe because of vibration. LT and tighten, problem solved. The play on the can is gone.