New Builder Parts Approval - Need Advice

I think there is some confusion. I am talking about buying any old htd5m pulleys and trying to mount them to the wheels. Buying a complete drive train from someone here is not of any concern to me.

I can help. These batteries only total 3s. So you could wire them in series to get the voltage you are looking for. I would begin to question the quality of the batteries and the actually capacity for that price. You are also likely to run into issues with the discharge of them considering they are advertised for cameras not esk8’s. I would recommend either 2 or 4 of these batteries. You would wire 2 of them in series to get the right voltage and then you would want to of those packs wired in parallel if the budget allows. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-3s-20c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html?___store=en_us

We eskater need alot of current during acceleration and while driving up a hill. Depending on weight, wind, gearing ect the need will increase or decrease. Since we can’t slap 100+ cells on or under our decks we need cells that have a good amount of Discharge Current so that we dont need alot of P groups and reduce the stress on each single cell. Right now the most famous Cells are Samsung 30Q, Sony VTC6, Samsung 25R and the LG HG2, correct me if am wrong here. Some work better in 4p+ like the 25R, the others do fine in 3p+. Also you don’t want your battery to ever run at the limit for longer periods of time, they get hot and also it reduces life and capacity

70mm seems kinda small for my liking… plus a lot of those wheels ddont have cores for the drive pulleys… maybe 73mm flywheels the smallest ive seen personally… if your not using a kegel pulley maybe consider 90mm flywheel clones if price an issue

I have only just finished my first build so my experience is limited, but from what I have read, people generally recommend VESC 6 (that would be the ESCape) over VESC 4.12 (that would be the one from HobbyKing) for single motor setup since with a single motor the VESC needs to supply high amps and 4.12 then tends to overheat.

Also, with VESC 6 in FOC mode there’s not really need for a sensored motor. Sensorless motors are cheaper and slightly easier to wire up (you don’t need the sensor wires). So you would pay more for the VESC, but would save a little bit on the motor. You would still end up paying more (~$160 ESCape + ~$65 motor), but it’s not that much of a difference and your setup would be more reliable. Here’s one option for sensorless: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-6364-190kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html

You may want to do some more reading in the forum on VESC 4.12 and single motor setups before deciding.

Ok so I read all the responses and taking all your advice into consideration, I’ve narrowed it down further. So firstly for the ESC, @janpom mentioned how the 4.12 may get overheated with just one motor. I researched this and found some people kinda supporting this idea but to be safe I guess the 6 is better.

Also, to support this the vesc that @Trdolan03 linked is cheaper than the enertion one, but with shipping and converting it to CAN its about $120. The Enertion one is on sale for $180 Australian (https://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/FOCBOX-programmable-brushless-motor-controller/#trustspot-widget-wrapper) which is basically level with CAN so $180. Hence, I think it’s worth it to spend a bit more for the Enertion one especially while this sale is on.

The batteries I’ll take TrDolan’s advice and go with the 2 of the 3s Zippy ones from hobby king. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-3s-20c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html?___store=en_us

About these batteries, is it better to get the version with the XT-60 or this version without? https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-5000mah-3s1p-20c.html. They are essentially the same price, but I’m not entirely sure about the significance of this component from what I can gather from the internet it is a power connector. Again my technical knowledge is quite limited so I’m not sure what this means in practical terms.

Linked to this is the switch TrDolan was talking about. I found this guide http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/how-to-anti-spark-xt-90-loop-key/204/4 on how to make one which seems interesting, and I assume I can safely substitute at XT-60 for the Xt-90 and this will work with my batter set-up?

And for charging, the balance charger you linked before is sufficient for those batteries I assume (https://www.ebay.com/itm/iMAX-B6-Lipo-NiMh-Li-ion-Ni-Cd-RC-Battery-Balance-Digital-Charger-Discharger/262442674824?epid=26012372770&hash=item3d1acd6a88:g:L4kAAOSwfC9XPAQy)

On to the drivetrain, I think based on what you guys are saying it is hard to get right as a beginner, so I may go with the pre-built one you linked earlier: collections/featured-items/products/single-motor-mechanical-kit Pretty expensive bcuz its USD and shipping is a lot from this website but I couldn’t find any good alternatives, if you guys know of any pls let me know. With the motor I’m looking at ill select the 63mm option and 83mm wheels. You guys also recommended a 15mm belt but this one is only 12mm, is that enough or no?

And for the motor the consensus seemed to be that the one I picked earlier was not powerful enough (@Benjamin899) , I found this one https://www.banggood.com/18-29V-170KV-2900kw-Electric-Skateboard-Longboard-High-Efficience-Brushless-DC-Motor-p-1240567.html?gmcCountry=CA&currency=CAD&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_elc&utm_content=felix2&utm_campaign=pla-all2-ca-en-pc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5PaMi_3z2wIVxbjACh3w-ALwEAYYAyABEgLqE_D_BwE&cur_warehouse=USA for a good price bcuz the total price has gotten a bit higher than I wished already. It is sensorless but that is okay if I use the FOC mode right?

I hope I covered everything. And thanks guys for all the input I appreciate it. All this stuff is intimidating for a beginner haha

Oh wait I knew I was forgetting something, the receiver. I found this on the enertion https://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/nano-x-enertion-2-4ghz-controller/#trustspot-widget-wrapper, suspiciously cheap? But it is a sale and there are multiple good reviews so it seems okay .

The XT60 is the connector on the battery leads. It makes no difference assuming you know how to solder.

The reason that you use xt90 is because they have anti-spark connectors while they don’t make them for the xt60. Amazon.com

They have an upgrade option for like $20 to a 15mm belt.

This remote is just fine.

Yes, this charger will be just fine for charging those batteries. You may need to do a little bit of wiring to get the balance cable to the outside of the box for balance charging.

Ok what you need to know about lipos is that you never rly know how good the batch is, some people are very pleased (me) some are not. But in general they have less cycles in them compared to a Li Ion battery made 18650 or others, so at the end if you are realy going to use the board daily Li-Ion tend to be the better choice value wise, but if you just want to build for first build and test out, why the hell not. I personally don’t like that motor but only because the phasewires are so thin, dunno what the other here thing about that, but i could be wrong. Again depending where you live it could all mean nothing or everything. To the topic of vesc6, since the price has dropped to this price point i don’t realy see an issue there, so i would go for one. @dickyho also sells motors, just ask him if you need something.

Ok so I’m gonna buy the VESC and remote now for sure while the sale’s on, I’ll do one more look tn for batteries and mechanical kit but I’m probably going to stick to the ones listed here. Is there any other cables or components I should order now? Don’t want to get stuck waiting for parts during the build.

I agree with @Benjamin899 that the thin phase wires on the motor look weird. Just get something well tested by the people here. The Turnigy SK3 is only $10 more.

The iMAX B6 is fine. Beware though that it comes without a power supply, so you’ll need to get one unless you already have a 12V one that outputs at least 5A. There’s also a version that you can plug directly to AC power source.

This balance lead adapter is handy if you’ll want to balance charge both of your batteries at the same time.

To connect the batteries in series, you’ll either need to solder on another connectors (4mm bullet connectors are cheap and widely used) or if you want to avoid soldering, you could get one of these.

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Ok I’ll go with the SK3 then, the sensorless one @janpom linked earlier (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-6364-190kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html) because I can just use the FOC mode on the VESC 6.

Also, can someone please explain the key loop/anti-spark switch? There was a couple forums here I found but nothing too beginner friendly. Would I be able to follow this guide https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/how-to-anti-spark-xt-90-loop-key/204/4 having very little electronic experience? If the keyloop is easier do you guys have any good places to buy them from, I couldn’t find much on the internet.

https://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/3X/6/3/63476facd35ae696698c00e8372c961ec4832702.gif Looks nice and clean (not mine)

This should make it even more obvious: loop_key

It’s basically using the XT-90 anti-spark connector as a poor man’s switch. Connecting the shorted female part (at the top) to the male part closes the circuit.

The downside is that you’ll need to have the female part sticking out of your battery compartment all the time.

You could get a regular switch, but they are a bit expensive.

How do you actually plan to do your battery compartment?

Thanks, that is a good picture I’ll definitely use that.

I was gonna use the 2 3s Lipos in series, and if thats not enough juice I’ll buy 2 more. And I have a little bit of experience soldering but not a lot, so I think i’ll buy this https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt60-harness-for-2-packs-in-series-1pc.html which you suggested to avoid soldering.

And okay, I think I can handle making that then, might as well give it a go those XT-90s are way cheaper than a switch anyways. That graphic clears it up for sure.

@HillRipper21 there are also AS150 used as Anti Spark Switchtes. Deckoz used it in his Evo build.

I had to look it up. Found it here: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/master-evo-landyachtz-abec-107-13s5p-focbox-6374-190kv-metr/44411/85

That’s a nice solution. I like it much better than the XT90 loop. It’s less bulky and when you unplug the connector, it remains attached to the enclosure, so you can’t lose it.

Uh is this the specific post I should follow? https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/master-evo-landyachtz-abec-107-13s5p-focbox-6374-190kv-metr/44411/160?u=hillripper21

And is it basically the same idea with that graphic you linked earlier but with the AS150 instead of the XT90?

Yes, the same idea. Just a different kind of “switch”. AS150 is a single cable connector, so it’s really simple. No need to short anything. Just put the male part on one end and the female part on the other.