My previous APS hold on so much abuse and etc and also 3k miles…
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@Kug3lis the nail on the head my friend without a doubt!! Things are built well then some bean counter says we can save some money here by using this company and then we can make more money and I’m sure it will be fine etc etc etc. Out of everything that we use I’m sure that motors are the biggest let down atm.
If there the same kit as this just with stator winded and Bell in parts would be awesome…
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Wow! That’s chatostrophic failiure!
I’m very curious now. Was there only one bearing on the rear of the bell? If so that’s just BAD design. Those tiny shallow groove ball bearings are not made to take any abuse. My 5070 APS motors have two of those bearings stacked up in the rear. I replaced the outermost ones with ceramic sealed RC gearbox bearings. Should last forever.
There’s a few reasons it could have failed so horribly. If there was any kind of load pushing the bell into the motor (pulling the pulley outward, that direction,) then they’ll be MUCH more likely to fail. These kinds of tiny bearings aren’t made to take radial loads like that. A well designed bearing would have a needle roller thrust bearing stacked on top to take side loads.
But alas, we only have cheap Chinese motors.
@Hummie hubs are made quality. Why can’t we have well designed belt driving motors? There’s a market for motors that can actually take abuse.
Yeah two bearings stacked but the outer one blew its load so to speak. No radial pressure at all. The other one is set up identical and fine. Must just have been pressed in badly at the factory that maybe dented the cover or something. Blows my mind how a piece got through and broke the pcb though. How does that happen? It was riding fine when I replaced the battery and never got a chance to use it with the new config. I noticed it was stiffer than the the other to spin and the can was moving slightly. All I did was set the new battery parameters and the vesc went all flashy red on me. The rest is history. Would be nice to have a good solid motor manufacturer thats for sure.
I betcha that the bearing was locked up. Axle was spinning inside the inner race. Once spun up using the VESC it probably had some kind of side load due to magnetic force between the stator and can, forcing the bearing to spin.
Hence why it shit the bed.
That was my theory. Dented cover locked it and boom. I’m just scouring my stores for a bearing as we speak.
These are what I used for mine. They seem very high quality to me. Little bit pricey though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VR53T28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Double check dimensions.
which motors do you have these on? did you swap them out right away or did you ride a fair bit before doing so? I might just pick these up if it would be safer to do then run on stock factory bearings on Maytech 6374s
Although they are not sensored and not the most powerful sk3’s seem to have proved themselves very reliable for many on the forum. Obvious downside is their size but for reliability they seem to be winners. Not to mention awesome after sales support from hk if you do have any problems
It just gets better and better at chez Daren. Fixed the motor it runs and detects fine now. Vesc not so much. That little piece of bearing when it knocked out the hall pcb must have damaged it. worked for a while but now giving me the same 3 blinking reds These are my fall back units anyway so i don’t fry my focboxes. Guess it did its job. Shame though I actually like these hk 4.12’s
@Boxer86 yeah man think I might grab a couple for the very reason that they’ve been around for a while and no one complains about them. Not designed for esk8 which is probably the very reason they are good. As for power well I’m really just after 30mph and shitloads of torque. 12s4p with those motors should be enough.
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I swear we both love bitching about being in Australia 
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On APS 5070 HEV motors. I only swapped the outer one on each for a little water resistance.
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plus back up original inner bearing in case the ceramic would break. Think that´s a good combination for not sealed motors.
How you got out the outer bearing? Is there a special trick for it?
Oh mine are sealed though so I figured swapping them out for the sake of durability more than protection from debris hitting it and causing the bearing to break open
I thought the ceramic ones more likely to break? does it even make sense to change them in a sealed motor?
I’ve read they’re more likely when subject to more impact but should do better with just flat out riding
just to give a bit more insight, sometimes factories will reduce quality after a certain reputation has been earned. Plenty of examples where initial batches of motors were using high temp expensive glue that was later swapped to inexpensive crap. The initial good reviews made sales sky rocket, after which they tried to play off reported failures as incidental once batch 3 or 4 were sent to customers. After the complaints went critical and had a big impact on sales, subsequent batches were improved again (brand RCX, multi-rotors). In a similar manner, bearings may be swapped out for different brands.
Same has happened with HK turnigy graphene lipos. There were subpar batches that all of the sudden could not handle the same amp draw.
Sometimes, resellers are not even informed of these changes.
In other words. Maytech & APS can be awesome one year and totally crap the next. Same with ‘‘diyeboard’’ trucks, you name it. It applies to almost everything.
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and that´s total sh** as consumer you never know who you can trust… I think nowadays it´s more easy/important to find a seller which has a good return policy…
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I bet you can buy those parts separately directly from the manufacturers. Only issue would be their minimum order quantity.
I guess soon 3Dservisas will be selling jacked up motors too 
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