NESE, the no solder 18650 battery system

ESK8 Innovations
41

You need to squeeze it a bit. Start at one side. You can use F clamp.

1 Like
42

Why donā€™t you use the small bus bars but these awg12 wires instead for bridging? I just got up, maybe still too tired :slight_smile: Edit : maybe for flex?

43

I believe your edit is right on the money. This is a smart way of introducing flex without increasing height. The way have done it until now, increases the height by quite a bit.

44

Exactly, it allows for some flex. Also with the way I have laid out these 2s3p blocks in my enclosure there is no way of actually using the bus bars. :slight_smile:

45

@CarbonV Let us know how did you get on with closing the lids :wink:

46

Need to get some of those clamps, or go a little harder in the gym :joy:

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47

These are some SEXE modules!:heart:

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48

Putting the lids on gave my thumbs a serious workout :joy:

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49

I dont think gym is the way out. Wife or girlfriend would give you better workout, you know, when bed time. :yum:

50

For light speed skateboard? :joy:

1280Ɨ960

4 Likes
51

When are we getting 20700 and 21700 modules?

52

Should be mid summer.

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53

I finally mounted them on the board with inserts and vibration mount. Putting the insert in is the hardest part. You have to get the spacing and the angle right. I had to make a small 3D printed jig to make sure my drill went in at the right angle and right position. Next time Iā€™ll try to think of a simpler solution. image image image image

11 Likes
54

Somehow i came to consensus, that the best way to mount them is with high end industrial doublesided tapes. It might sound weak but its actually stronger than any other option. It does not add to the hight, maybe 1mm or 2mm. The board remains flexible. You can still pry modules off. Most of all it very quick and requires not tools.

6 Likes
55

You probably meant conclusion. Consensus is when a group of people agree on something. Hope you donā€™t mind me correcting. As a non native english speaker myself I prefer when people correct me.

That might be the simplest of solution. I believe, it, still, will need 2 small 3d printed(joined to the NESE box on the bottom side with the standard screws) on which you would stick the double sided tape. If the deck was flat it wouldnā€™t be required. The other alternative would be to use multiple layers of the double sided tape instead.

Iā€™ll try the double sided tape when I open up my enclosure(Itā€™s sealed shut and has the original NESE setup) after completing 1000km. Iā€™ll do it only if something was broken, haha.

Screenshot_20190518-173335
Screenshot_20190518-1733351080Ɨ1920 165 KB

1 Like
56

Consensus as there are two of me debating over things inside my head :slight_smile: One says no, the other says research :smiley: Either way, thanks, as i do like people correcting me. Almost 1000km :open_mouth: Thas not too shabby.

2 Likes
57

Hahaha, fair enough.

58

:wink:

I have updated thingiverse with BMS enclosure files. They are step files so you will need to stitch them to desired combination. BMS bracket could be altered in all 3 dimensions on inventor. Other programs will need hard edit. Link

59

@mishrasubhransu What is the size of you DieBieMS tabs? i tried printing them but not sure if its to scale?

60

I got an unused full 12s4p kit from someone else and after receiving it I can see he cut all the tabs in the middle, so now I canā€™t make a 2s4p modules anymore but rather 2 x 1s4p.

Does anyone have an idea of how I can join the tabs back into 1 full tab? I tried soldering a braided wire in between but didnā€™t work.

Iā€™m trying to avoid having to connect them from the outside.

Picture of the tabs: 20190519_114114

This is the layout I was planning:

image

I have 11 tab pairs on the side but they are for another project where Iā€™m making a 10s5p battery