I cant say ive had the same experience. Zero cutouts, zero sticking issues and survived me eating shit when Y battery cut out. Maybe the nano v2 is a just lil different than the nano-x?
A little bit of lithium grease can help smooth out the trigger too. Not to much all you want is enough for a thin coating so it dosnt get everywhere.
I plan on using the remote with out the dead man swith activated.
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the trigger has minimal travel. just the travel of the button, so like 1-ish mm.
Your printer is underextruding a bit. Bump up that extrusion multiplier up one or two so those gaps go away.
Ps. Can you make the notch a little wider and further away from the edge? Its a little to close and sometimes brakes.
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I will look at it later tonight.
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Thanks for being open to it. Iâve printed about 6 or 7 of these so far on different printers and different materials. The one that got stuck (only 1 time but itâs enough to wreck you) was a very smooth print. I think the problem is that my prints are not dimensionally accurate, being a little bit off is enough to make the thumbwheel stick.
Either way there is no need to create a channel for the thumbwheel inside the casing, if we are already talking about adding the thin smooth paper or grease I think for safety reasons itâs best to instead change the design to what I was suggesting above(like the Nano V2 does it) or something similar. I think itâs too great of a risk to take (e.g.: what if the smooth thin paper moves out of the way?) if there is a viable safer alternative.
Regarding the accident I will be ok, it will just take a bit of time for my leg to recover but I think I can be back on the e-skate for the summer.
I took a razor and smoothed out every contact patch inside the thumb wheel. No problems with sticking.
It must have been very rough if you needed to use a razor! Either way I donât know how you can make a curved surface smooth and even throughout the curve with a razor.
It wasnât very rough, I just did it for good measure. And its not hard to smooth a round surface with a razor if you have a steady hand and a good eye.
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My first one printing okay. The tip above where your index finger goes came out a bit boogery but nice print over all.
Going to use a smooth glass bed and better quality filament with my next print.
Feels really nice, the trigger throw is longer and there no longer that clicky feel when you go full throttle or full brakes.
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Btw what screws are you guys using? I have m3 10mm long and they work but only 1 screw got tight the others stripped out easily.
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m2 12mm is what I used and worked good
3 in black socket head I thought looked clean and is the perfect length 
Wow i feel like m2 would just fall in the hole.
Maybe depends on what you printed withâŚ? Mine were actually tight going in and had to almost drill it out some with the screw as they went in. You can ask @RedBaron what he did on the print different than you⌠(as you saw from the post about me being untrustworthyâŚ
)
I doubt it was my print setting cause everythng else electronic wise fit like a glove.
All printers depending on the slicer software have fluctuation in scale, you will never get two identical parts from a 3d printer. Sometimes outline perimeter layers also slightly effects hole sizing. I use 3 to 4 outline perimeter layers for strength in holes that accept screws.
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You are right im a 3d printing noob. I used 3 walls ill try a bit thicker my next print.
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Finished a print with polymaker polymax filament and some supports and the print came out much nicer.
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@Winfly i dont see a place to add a lanyard but i saw a pic of one of your earlier models using a lanyard. Where did you put yours? Id like to not drop my remote by accodent.
