No worries! Already printing the latest version in black PETG
Sure! Need to print it first tho, tomorrow
Noticed the model changed again on the 19th, is that a significant change? Just printed 2 a few days ago
Nope I just made the holes and counter bored a little bit deeper. So the screws can grab better beyond the trigger. No major change.
Left is Prussament PLA printed on teh Prusa MK3S Right is PETG printed on the CR10S PRO
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Good to know Iām not the only one whose PETG turns out less than stellar (no offense).
Iāve tried COUNTLESS suggestions, including other peoplesā specific Cura profiles for the Ender 3, but can never get anywhere near the same results, even trying three different brands of filament.
Iām close though. I donāt want to give up, but damn is it ever disheartening sometimes.
I havent tried too many brands but HatchBox is my go to.
235C/70C 40mm/s
but honestly for a remote PLA is more than good enough.
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Not sure what you are talking about, the PETG turned out almost perfect. Those thin strands that you see are easily removable with your finger or with a heat gun. Maybe the flash from the camera is throwing you off?
Possibly. It looks a bit warped and blobby in a few spots, but it could just be the flash/finish of it.
Iām just spoiled by how good PLA always turns out.
@Winfly I did do the remote in PLA, but Iāve been trying to perfect PETG for enclosures and stuff like that. Maybe Iām setting my standards too high 
yeah. PETG is great and all but itās just a little too sticky. unless you nail it down, it will never be as good as PLA prints.
Is it possible to get the files without the nano w ingraved also just wondering what do the 10k resistors do?
itās a voltage divider. so when the trigger is not press, sensor value return to the center.
with a little be of editing iām sure you can erase the letters yourself.
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In the thingiverse instructions it says to use a thin strip of smooth paper in installation of the deadmanās switch, how is it used?
Itās for the thumb wheel. If your print isnāt very smooth, put it between the inner diameter of the thumbwheel and the casing to not have your thumb get stuck.
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Decided to skin it in True CF looks amazing Gonna give it another shot with different color PLA
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Took some pictures when I assembled a second one. Pictures should be in order.
Solder on the battery.
Remove channel 2 button for trigger.
Trim the button into size.
Button should fits right there. You can move it up and down a little to change how the trigger feels.
Voltage divider when trigger is not pressed.
Cut the middle wire and solder to each end to complete the trigger.
Cut that long ass button to bare.
After that, tuck all the wires into the channel and try to close the top. When everything is in place it will close shut tightly with a littl resistance from the battery popping out.
P.S. when you turn on the remote, you would still need to calibrate the throttle range. So hold down the trigger when you do that.
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Thanks great instructions
Love the feel of this remote! Converting both nano-xās to use this design. Fits the hand great and that extra battery life is clutch!!!
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Can one of the fine and friendly gentlemen on hear be a true scholar and print a fellow esk8 brotha the printed parts needed for this mod and send them to me in SoCal by chanceā¦ pretty please and thank you in advanceā¦ 
Happy to PayPal some funds for the time and postage etc (not looking for a free one unless someone wants to offer that) but I have a extra nano-x and need a good remote for my next build with the TB DDās and 110ās that are supposed to ship this week.
Oh and I donāt need the dead-mans switch if that changes anything. Is there just a whole if you donāt use the dead-mans switch or is there a print to fill that in for people who donāt use it?
LMK and thanks so much in advance to anyone who can help me out. Would prefer the best quality print and material possible FYI.
PM or hmu here.