Hey my 2 cents opinion disagrees on this point! Any safety feature to prevent hazard, as long as it is well built and do not restrict the ride, should be welcome. Adding air gap between cells and on fuse area should not be so difficult even under a board. You know better than me random shit happens with lithium batteries. Better be prepared when it comes.
Random shit happens when people do random stuff with batteries. Use random shit to build batteries. Look at laptops, tool packs, most of them are unfused. Use propper cells, propper balancing, charger, build packs according to guidelines and you will be fine. Check youtube for overcharged overdischarged and shorted cells. They are not that dramatic. I do reffer this to 18650.
BTW, adding a fuse is complicated, adding a fuse DIY for it to function is too complicated. Added space arround the fuse will be an issue to most cause it will be that much larger 
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I get your point and with proper care everything should be alright, true. But with our hobby we are mainly talking about unsuspended compact vehicle, boards and any āsmall wheelā stuff deal with lot of vibrations and urban āagressionsā (rocks, pebbles, potholes, direct contact with concreteā¦)
Letās face it too, most of us donāt give a damn about āabusing batteriesā when the ride feels sweet, being tempted to pull more current to keep going when suddenly power feels lacking. Itās just us being humans, adrenaline canāt wait.
When battery packs go thermal runaway for XY reasons it still is ugly. Being able to limit the source of energy to a single defective cell instead of a potential whole pack makes a big difference, be it safety or cost effective - at worst, gaining more time to get off the board ; maybe get enough time to strip battery pack off the board ; maybe the defective parallel cell simply shuts its parallel line down. At best, being able to save undamaged cells and not need buy a whole new battery pack.
This is even more interesting if you use solderless no ? Apart from ease of assembly best part is cells remain standard and never suffered cathode damage due to spot welding.
Sure, hobby is what makes differnce. I stand by my point cause i dont care about soldered or welded packs. I only care and see the future in solderless and thats why i dedicated some years on this. Put my module on your board and it will not care about the vibration one bit. I have done vibration test at 200A full discharge. Fuse is meant to protect parallel cells not series excluding fire situation. In my case you would need to change 8 cells max, largest module. Making fuses out of copper is nonsense and my busbars are copper. Making busbars from other material is nonsense cause of high r and when you have few cells that limmits your power. Look at vruzend, 3.5A ler cell vs 35A i can pull. Mix of materials? You enter plasma or ultrasonic welders zone and the cost goes up a lot. Plus thin fuses will not sustain compretion and this whole design would not be viable.
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The change in tooling is minimal, the change in materials used is a small amount more poron 
The change is dependant on how many you sell
I dont see a point so i wont do it. I would advise to use propper electronics with my system and you will be alright and the rest systems i dont care about. If people want to glue cells with houshold hot glue, fine. If people want to use rc stuff for charging, monitoring, fine but i am not gonna start changing stuff that i have no believe in based on thin air. I have other facts and my math is based on solid propper stuff, not on missuses
Got some tools and supplies. Will start making test samples for BMS harness
P.S. Just this once i can offer a pre-built battery containing 10S(3-6)P with bluetooth BMS and chosen cell type from www.nkon.nl with free assembly for EU.
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Kudos for innovating on this front. Wish I knew of your solution a couple of years ago.
Knipex? they make some sweet levers, love mine.
Yeah, i think they are one of top brands for wire manipulation tools (cutters, strippers, crimpers). I still want a crimper with interchangeable dies but they are 150-250 eur 
Ouch! Yeah they are top like festool
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Weird question; can you use 3 cells in a 4p enclosure since the bus bars are continuous? I was thinking I could buy batteries for a 10s3p setup and if not enough power, I could upgrade it to 10s4p without changing enclosures.
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Canāt see why not
Sure it will work any way you like it. You could put one cell in 8P add the rest later. Only thing to watch out is cell age and cycle life. You want cells to be as close to one another with cycle life and age as possible
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Hey @agniusm Really like your work on this modules. Interrested in 10S-4P and 12S-6P I would prefer the Samsung 30Q Could you send me a pm with your Pricepoint ?
Cheers from Germany Jens
Hi, could you contact me on agniusmk at gmail dot com
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Hey @agniusm, any interest in releasing a coupon - to the community for a discount or by pm? Iām on the verge of ordering a 12s4p hardware set after making a test print.
Also going to build a powerbank, how cool! I have the circuit board that you show although had some problems getting it to power up using my graphene 3s lipo, any suggestions or details on getting it together? Ah, methinks it should only get a max of Power input: 5V 1A
Edit wiring is covered on YouTube if not self evident
Iāll se what i can do for Christmas even if its small. Wiring powerbank is like soldering two wires. Simple
Till the end of the year small present, 10% off. Coupon code - christmas
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Thank you I took advantage of this kind offer to the forum, you should see some orders no doubt oncluding mine today.
You do nice work like some of the folks here, Iām pretty much a newbie too but welcome 