I print out of many. Prusa mk2 zaribo one of them. Slic3r pe is suited for every printed, its bot specifically tied to their printers
Hello. I am planning to build a 12s6P pack yo fit a Trampa’s Monster box with the internal dimensions usable for the battery 205mm x 190mm x74 mm. Can anyone reccomend best wiring diagram and which moduls I should use. Also recomendations for charge/discharge bms will be much appreciated
You wont be able to fit that many in that space. Single 6P module is 22x74.2x123mm. 12 modules are 264mm.
Would I be able to fit 12S4P pack do you think?
Thanks so much. I’ll put them in an see how the print comes out.
You can fit up to 18S4P in that space using 2S4P modules. They are 168mm in length so they utilyze space better.
Thanks. Just checked your website and see that you selling printed 4P modules. How would I need to proceed if I wanted to buy 12 printed moduls and all of the hardware that is required to build the pack. Also would you or enyone else be able to provide a wiring/conecting diagram with bms
For wiring see post 692. For buying component just go on the website and order:
12 4P modules (or 6 2S4P modules)
11 series bus bars (or 10 ↑)
optional:
11 twin bolt caps or (or 8 ↑)
2 single bolt caps or (or 4 ↑)
1 ring terminal set
1 tube ring lugs of chosen wire gauge
Dont forget to check resources area to double check dimensions. Bolt, series bus bar and cap adds 10mm to the module.
2P and 2S2P module prices are reduced by 20%. Permanent.
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Thanks for all the info I am just bit worried that 12S4P may not give me enough range for mountain board
How are you guys mounting your NESE modules to the board? Are you just bolting them straight into the board inserts, or are you using some kind of rubber washers or vibration mountings?
Same way you would mount any battery for me. Neoprene for anti vibration then gorilla tape
I think I saw printable models of holders for NESE modules. Not sure but it was somewhere on the NESE site. So if you have an access to 3Dprinter you can use them.
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I have successfully used 2 different techniques, one uses 3D printer and the other uses vibration standoffs from aliexpress. Basically it is highly desirable to put everything on/inside mounts/pads/sheets to increase functional life of your parts whether it be electronics or mechanical parts. I have had capacitors fall out after 1000km or so. I have since made sure to mount/surround everything with sponge/flexible plastic/rubber based structures.
3D printed mounts
I currently have more than 700km on this setup above.
I also discovered recently that TPU makes a good mount too while being pretty compact. Experimenting more on it.
Vibration standoffs
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/8pcs-lot-M3-Male-Female-Anti-Vibration-Rubber-Isolator-Mounts-Set-8-8mm-for-Air-Compressors/32843986528.html Don’t let the size fool you. They are pretty strong in compression and in tension while having a lot of flex.
This was just a trial setup that I made. Final setup will have all the balance wires tucked away nicely.
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Those rubber standoffs are pretty much exactly what I had bookmarked, but my only concern was that they would leave a pretty big (about 8mm) gap between the nese and the board. Which might be fine, I’m not sure, that’s why I’m asking 
However I see you made them offset from the NESE itself, which drops them slightly. Good plan, and should be easy enough to 3D print something that will bolt onto my printed NESE modules and add those end bolt holes to it…
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Do you prefer the rubber standoffs version, or your own 3D printed spring mounts?
Rubber standoffs because they are super super compact. But mounting them is a tiny bit harder. What I had to do was to drill undersize holes in the deck, then screw in a m3 bolt making sure that I don’t destroy the threads that I am creating adn then finally put the standoffs in using a vice-grip like in the images above. Ideally I would take some inserts for wood and put them in first and then mount the rubber standoffs to it using small amount of threadlocker.
What size bolts do you use? I’m guessing either M3 or M4?
If the deck is thick enough, you could sink those some by drulling larger hole and then smaller through and bolting from the top if you dont mind bolts at top side
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