you buy the parts seperately.
Mine arrived! Bought a single enclosure for scaling my own print and the parts for a 14s5p for my e-bike. Took about a month to arrive to western Canada on flat rate shipping. Iām really impressed by your print quality, itās stunning and could easily make me think itās injection molded. Iām noticing the part that arrived is a different design than my own though. Your part does not have the ledges that separate the batteries, although the version on your site does. It has some ledging, but on the 5P and 3P vented models from your site itās a big difference. ie. OOOOO vs. O^O^O^O^O
EDIT: I suppose a better way to describe it is that the part I was sold has its vents in between the batteries, but the printable parts have them on the battery itself, with the area between the batteries being plastic. Is this intentional?
EDIT 2: Is a heat gun mandatory? I canāt seem to fit the cells in the part I was sent without a large bulge in the middle.
Interesting, I had assumed that all the NESE modules had the ledging gaps. I had originally thought to remove those in my own version, but then I saw a āhow toā video using them that showed the batteries were flush against each other, so I just thought those ledges werenāt as big a gap as it seemed from the 3d model.
Now Iām wondering if the module in the video didnāt have those ledges. I need to do a test myself really but I still havenāt gotten around to ordering my batteries haha
Took 1 month to arrive in Canada after ordering? I better place my order soon then.
You shouldnāt have to use heatgun at all. If you have a calliper measure how wide are your cells. Shouldnāt be anymore than 18.3mm.
Pics would be nice when describing an issue.
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Admittedly, I was avoiding pics to not show my awful PETG print job. But hereās some.
Difference between model on site and sent print:
The tight fit for my Sanyo NCR18650GA cells, roughly 18.5mm. (electrical tape is over minor dings in the wrapping, not thick enough to greatly effect cell width).
EDIT: With some liberal use of strength Iāve managed to get them in pretty well, however the sides (pos/neg of cells) bulge making the lid very difficult to put onā¦
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By design itās a tight fit to save as much space as possible, so the addition of the black tape on either side makes it not fit. You should remove them and try again.
It actually is pretty significant. I had a kapton tape to insulate two parallel groups and even that caused tightness. They are parallel groups so you donāt need that extra insulation(black tape)
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Wouldnāt bare cells touching cause a major issue? Even if theyāre parallel and wouldnāt short. wouldnāt the current transfer between the bare-area and not utilize the whole cell?
Nope! They are all connected through the same thick metal. Where you connect, doesnāt matter. I have seen Agnius remove the entire cover in the parallel groups.
BTW, where did you get the files from? There are updated files in this thread above. look for google drive link.
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I grabbed them from the resources page on 18650.lt, last updated 2018.
Those are old files. Search for google drive link above.
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Good brand 18650 cells available at $2(flash sale) in the usa. Shipping is $6 in USA.
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Saw that. Really nice. Sadly I am eu
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One question, how to you stance the holes and press the molds/buttons or whatever you call them into the Nickel strips?
Would want to experiment with nese modules but more i am planning to do some custom 10s packs and need some tips/hintsā¦
Thanks in advance Greetings Ron.
Well your question is for @agniusm and NESE is his product. I just bought the copper tabs from him and made my own custom boxes.
@beherit, most recent models are linked here. They are not on 18650.lt as i run them to be sure they are 100%. If you feel its too tight, just scale when you slicing uniformly by 1-2% and you should be fine. Most of the time printers dont have 0.01 tolerances so 0.15 or 0.2 would make that difference not fitting well. . @mishrasubhransu i have finally sorted customs and yours will ship tomorrow. Sorry for the delay, still adjusting to increased demand.
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Thanks. I find 102% is a nice fit, maybe a little loose. I eventually got the cells and lid to fit on the case you sent, it was just a little difficult. Iām saving on cash so instead of buying ninjaflex for the caps I just scaled the single caps to 118% which fits pretty tight onto the screw.
I am currently printing at 100.5. So give it a couple more tries. What filament are you using?
I use Econofil PETG, although fighting that first layer to stop blobbing has likely been the root of a lot of my issues. Iāll slowly move down from 102 to 101 or 100.5 and see what works best for me.
Do you use a glass bed? What temp bed? Do you use glue stick?
I have issues with PETG blobbing sometimes when I use gluestick, but PETG on raw clean glass sticks great. Only problem is that one time it took some glass with it but usually itās not an issue.
How about initial layer Z height? First layer speed? Do you do a nozzle wipe routine prior to printing the part? Clean nozzle? Silicone sock?
I think any of these will help, slightly higher initial Z height, slower speed, hotter bed, clean nozzle, silicone sock, nozzle wipe to prevent blobbing from starting and getting flow going, print without glue, print on raw glassā¦
Iām sure there are other better tips for reducing PETG blobbing but these worked for me for the most part
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