Ah yeh if you print PETG so fast that will be really tricky.
I don’t use part cooling fan. I have done strength testing and without part cooling I have the best layer adhesion.
My retraction is 3mm at 70mm/sec retraction and 40mm/sec prime(putting it back)
Use silicone sock + high temp silicone on rest of the exposed nozzle if possible.
Double the nozzle to bed distance than what you use for pla
Print speed is 40mm/sec.
Nozzle temp at 245C
I use the clone BGM extruder though($30). The best upgrade I made.
I also have a drybox with dessicant packets
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got both tabs and battery I will try out your module
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Does someone have a link to the most recent “Agnus” NESE modules please? Because I heard they are no longer up-to-date on the site. Thanks in advance.
Search up on the thread. There is a Google drive Link that agnius posted.
That one didn’t work for me.
Thank you!
Printed now in PETG with success. It was just my extruder running with only 600mA… Thats a b it low for sticky material. Went up to 900 and now its just finde. Also reduced the speed to crappy 50mm/s. Slow but it works.
The martial is really “strong” in case of impacts. Nice. I go for a small riser with lights, charge plug and ON ONFF button. Thx for the idea…
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10s3p NESE
Thank you for allowing a noob to still build a great and safe battery 
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wow thats cool! please show the finished product once you make it.
Can a mod or @NAF, make this a solution. So that people have the latest files when they scroll from the top.
I will add a link. I will have archive on the website instead of flashy 3d preview. Maintenance is too demanding when you have so many options. I have just remaking stl files. Found batch tool to rotate and orient models in batches which saves me so 3 hours of manual borring work. @ryansinatra looking great so far.
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@visnu777 thank you very much for kind words. I do try improve quality constantly. The latest printers yours are printed on are printing better than prusa but i took me since july to get here and i have final upgrades in my mind for even better accuracy. Hopefully you will pinpoint the issue you have.
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Now you just teasing us. Show us the pics.
I said this because I recently printed the same 2s3p cases I just got which was a pita. I produced a lot of scrap PETG (I will hopefully have access to a filament recyler so its not that bad) in the process. I learned a lot about my Ender 3 though, it is now not comparable to the stock version anymore :D. I printed PETG totally wrong (bed leveled for PLA is way too close for it), now its perfectly calibrated and everything. I was really happy with my results but today when I held the ones @agniusm printed it was like night and day. I needed to clean up my prints, his look and feel just perfect. Anybody who complains about the price needs to try print them by her/himself, actually when you calculate material and time (which is quite expensive in my case, but its a hobby right? :D) its way too cheap imho.
mine are more shiny because it was printed on the backside of the tempered glass cf plate from creality 
The first green lid in the first pic was printed on the CF side. Which build surface do you use @agniusm? it almost feels like glass but slightly less polished
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I always use PEI but not the chinese ones. Mine are matt finish from prusa or prima 3d. I am not a fan of glossy finish, i would only use it for tail lights And it could make scratches more pronounced. I also chose clear for my main color as it is harder to see imperfection that are present using this method of manufacturing. Sneaky 
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I should have gotten the 2s3p modules from the start, much cleaner than twice of 1s3p plus more stability. Btw: used fishpaper rings on the plus pole this time, just to be more sure 
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Must be paint in the a… charging each module separately? Any plans for BMS?