N.E.S.E / NESE - No solder module battery packs

250km! That’s great!!! Exactly what I want to hear. :sunglasses:

…I didn’t get the artifacting in Cura…only Simplify3d.

MeshMixer reported problems with the STL file as well…and it didn’t play nice while I tried to repair it. I ended up bringing it into Rhino3D and rebuilding Mesh normals ( i think…can’t remember now). After export that weird artifact I posted above went away.

Regardless, MeshMixer reports problems with the original STL.

I built a 10S4P just like Whitepony…vacuum formed individual battery trays, etc. I just want to be able to take the damn board with me on summer vacation! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

With my current setup I can’t take anything apart. Board rides like a dream otherwise~

@mishrasubhransu and @sainttjames, The files are generated from inventor then brought into s3d, oriented how they should be printed and saved as binary stl. I had no issues with s3d or slic3r. I remember someone from french customers had similar issue on repetier.

@Hummie are you using a different style of inserts? I notice yours are copper but the near strips seem to be coated copper

Hey Agnius, not trying to throw any shade on ya…I’m a big fan of your design!

An analysis in Meshmixer looks like this. It’s probably why my first print had some artifacts in S3D. Meshmixer%20analysis%202S4P(4P%204P)

A magenta sphere points out disconnected components with small area relative to the entire mesh.

Some could be disconnected. There are now 8 half parts that build up module, e.g. base front, base middle and base rear. These are halfs. They are mirrored to form complete section, then those sections are assembled into modulea, say 1 front one rear and 3 middle. The constraint is at one edge. That could pose a problem when the is no uniform solid and errors might appear in translation. I would not be able to easy update or revise modules as it would take ages. Now i just update a section and assemblies get updated automatically. I am printing them 24/7 and if there is meshes that show errors in meshmixer, i dont care as they do not inprint. I will check the ones you are trying just to be certain.

Why is ABS just the second choice?! ABS is better in all categories. Just harder to print for some people.

It is harder to print for larger procentage of people plus ita toxic when printing. For me it is easier with lower error margin so i can keep the prices as low as i can.

Hey @agniusm - I have the printed parts and the hardware, I just need the tabs only for 10s3p

The tabs on the site look like they are 8 units long. How do I get the tab that goes in my base module that is 6 batteries wide that has a tab on each end?

You dont. You cut it at 6P and the tab exits on one end but that is sufficient to hook up balance wire.

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image image image image image Uploading: A3947D1B-BFF1-4D59-B88A-25E6B8342B68.jpeg… [quote=“jneumann, post:887, topic:36847, full:true”] @Hummie are you using a different style of inserts? I notice yours are copper but the near strips seem to be coated copper [/quote] They’re bare copper. A different design. I press the strip with an abs press and epdm bands for compressing to contacts.

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Perfect! Figured as much.im glad you understood my question. Much appreciated.

I was basically trying to summarize 18650.lt for the people reading the thread.

But IMO after attempting to print these in ABS (prusa mk3, 2 spools and a foam enclosure):

  • ABS has shrinkage, which means you have to print at 101% or 102% with trial and error.
  • ABS shrinkage makes it very challenging to print these NESE modules, lots of trial and error at least for me. Many failed prints, and even the good prints are deformed in the corners at least a bit. Lid fit is hit-and-miss.
  • 3d printed ABS seems quite brittle. I understand this can be tuned with temperatures, but again lots of trial and error and competing with other desirable properties.
  • have to print hot in a hot space, and it smells when printing (reading a lot, I’m not very concerned about internet chatter on health risks, at my volume of printing)

but,

  • ABS is cheap
  • ABS is fast to print once dialed
  • ABS is somewhat UV resistant
  • ABS can be strong and nonbrittle if you get things dialed in

now for PETG:

  • PETG is dimensionally more stable
  • PETGis less brittle

but,

  • PETG is more expensive
  • at least for me, I have to print PETG slower

Given all the time and materials spent with trial and error, PETG is actually for me a lot faster and a lot cheaper as well.

Disclaimer: I am not an expert (but boy I sure spent a lot of time with ABS), and I am using hobbyking colorchange ABS, of which I have many spools due to some crazy sale they had.

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@Hummie , my bad if it’s been mentioned earlier - but are you open sourcing any of this? Cause it looks dope

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Sorry man… but then u just can’t print ABS.

ABS hast a Extrusion multiplier by 1.0. PET-G 0.85-0.95. PLA 0.9.

That are basics in 3D Printing. Of course it needs a lot more to print ABS. If u print ABS in a chamber it is defiantly more stable and a lot more temperature resistant then PETG.

PETG is great because it’s that easy to print. Specially if u don’t have a chamber or full metal hotend ect… print at least with Ooz shield…

Let’s say PETG is definitely easier to print. But ABS is the first Choice of u could handle it. I have a lot experience in printing ABS.

Sorry! I don’t wanna blame u or any other guy here… but I also don’t want that someone is saying PETG is the best. In mechanical and specialy mechanical resistance under temperature influence… the winner is definitely ABS. :slight_smile: BUT OF COURSE… PETG is just fine for these purposes!

EDIT:

Maybe I just hate PETG :joy: I hate this stringing… HATE!

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I will as soon as I run it later today! you’ll need to get the right copper sheeting (forget the size now but equates to 12awg weight) and also you’ll need to print the press for it too. you can see it in the pics above. @agniusm 's stuff has been inspirational for me and I like to think it’s like his…but better! no hard feelings but I feel the use of bands is maybe better and the tension of epdm bands will last better long term then thin strips of Poron compression foam but I can’t find evidence and just going off assumptions and hope. could always add two bands or more or check them periodically. I do like how the bands perform some protection and no foam is needed. I also think since this method doesn’t rely on the compression set and tension fatigue of 3d printed plastic its safer. bands are meant to be stretched and keep that tension for long periods of time. it’s their specialty.

Haha maybe you just can’t print PETG :wink:

No worries my feelings are not hurt. But I did try enclosure and all. I’d argue if that much dicking around still doesn’t produce results, it ain’t worth it. But I have this huge pile of cheap ABS lol.

And definitely all this information helps me.

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PETG prints best with direct drive. Making sure the first layer is not too squished. Using a silicone sock. Maybe @agniusm can tell us his tricks in printing it perfectly.

I have minor stringing. I blow it with heat gun if any. I print strait on pei 60mm/s. Nothing fancy. @Hummie, nice you have thing moving. Can i ask to make separate thread for your design as this one gets hijacked and might be confusing for new people visitig? Dont meen to be rude or anything but its not NESE or not NESE mod like @mishrasubhransu modding anymore. Appreciate your understanding.

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I know how to print PETG. I just hate the stringing. ABS is just so clean. It’s more a personal preference :slight_smile:

Of course i use a condom. On my nozzle. In the Printer.

image

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