The parts are actually pretty good from the printer. Unfortunately I don’t remember what infill percentage I used back then, but layer height was .254mm . Also ABS is kinda brittle from my experience.
Now I just print with clear PETG on an ender 3. Seems to be working great.
I print quite a lot and ABS is good if printed well but PETG has just more layer adhesion. At least that what I get. I sue ABS and I am totally fine with it, but the layer adhesion that I get with PETG is on another level.
I find PETG to be strong, but when it breaks, it breaks in strange unpredictable ways. I guess what I’m trying to say is, it’s not as strong as I expect, and fails in places I don’t think are the stress points.
Any guesses what I am trying to show here?
Bottom
top
corner
Files have been updated. I have no time yet to upload to my website but you can access them here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1PGZ9yq_fR-jCwFaxxJ06rq8rRdNKgKuQ?usp=sharing
since so many of you took so much interest, I must tell you more about it. Haha.
Well, i tried to make a compact 4 cell module all of them swelled up in the middle. so a load bearing lid was necessary to maintain the compression. The load bearing lid would add to the thickness and also you would have to trust the plastic to hold the compression along with screws. Going Agnius’s way made the module a bit longer (83mm vs 77mm)
So final decision was to free the lid from having to help in compression. In absence of lid the module would bulge in the middle, but what if you make the walls gradually curve inward as the height increases. Basically you come up with the geometry that after bending looks like the things that you wanted in the first place. That’s what you see in the previous image. An inward curving wall. It is a straight wall at the bottom but curved at the top. And it worked out great. The poron is uniformly compressed and the box is a rectangle and not a rectangle after a thanksgiving dinner. Also I increased wall thickness a bit to increase wall strength.
Final dimensions are 77x75x21. Along the length of the cells it measures 75mm.
The lid now uses a M2 screw to hold the cells in place and it does it’s work very well. The quality of my prints are not that good(PETG sticking to outside of nozzle) but there are some shots.
Good work. Good to have options.
I have made very simple survey and if people who purchased parts or kits from me, could spend 1 minute of their time to fill it in i would appreciate it. I would appreciate unbiased, good or bad.
that was the first ever survey that actually just took a minute^^
Anyone made a 5S2P pack using N.E.S.E modules yet? I’m looking to make a flight safe pack so will be splitting a 10S2P pack into 2 x 5S2P for cabin baggage. Space is tight on the board so cells will need to be in two rows of 10 cells, so I was thinking 5S2P configuration of 4-2-4 in terms of N.E.S.E modules. Would this work? The bars would need to come out either side of the modules instead of out one end though so I would have to edit the 3D models I assume.
Sure you can. “Two rows of 10 cells” what is that supposed to mean?
why so complicated. just buy 10x2p modules.
5 x 2P modules will add a lot of length I believe as the embedded nuts add length to each module. I don’t have much space available under the deck.
I get the feeling you don’t understand these modules.
Each module has a captive nut I believe which adds length.
Here’s my board mocked up with the cells side by side, as you can see I don’t have much length to use.
adding modules increases the length alongside the board. the part you marked changes nothing in the already existing dimensions. Also the 2P modules are even smaller compared to the 2s2p modules, also considering that only even numbers are possible with those.
The section I marked will be added 5 times if I used 5 x 2P modules. Which would take the battery outside the marked purple/blue area in my drawing.
Only way out i see is using @mishrasubhransu design he posted recently, if it had exits on both sides. For the compactness, you would need to solder tabs outside or use some other method for series and balance.
the nuts show outwards, the way you showed is a total waste of space. Since this is a topmount you can just stack them.
It’s bottom mount, so space is limited as I mentioned.
