well, my enertion copy has two small hole already there for belt coverings. i didnt drilled nor used thick bolts. just some spacers.
ahh, ok, thanks for the info
Do you think the bearing “sleeve” could be used on a shoulder bolt with the right spacing/washers. Want to be able to just tap a m6 thread on my existing mount.
It can work with a shoulder bolt but it would probably need to be “adjusted” on the lathe.
@Titoxd10001 I tried tapping the hole, but I don’t have a drill press so it turned out to be crooked. Additionally, it seems the plate is under enough stress just holding the motor without also holding an idler pulley in place. The problem with my idea is that the flange nut interferes with motor position adjustment. But I find it to be necessary for structural integrity of the idler shaft as well as for the true 90 deg. angle of the shoulder bolt.
Edit: I should really get a drill press
I have both m8 low profile screws and m6 shoulder screw. The heads are basically identical. If you’re using 8mm inner diameter bearings it should work I think. Do have dimensions like width and diameter of the sleeve. That’s the part I want to try
@PatRocks yeah I’m not getting enough clearance with the nut in the back. Im using a m6 shoulder bolt on my mono drive where i don’t have clearance issues and it is working fine, seems sturdy and we’ll aligned because there is less play between bearing and screw. I did use a drill press lol
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I cut them down to a cap height of .125"
The stock bolt will protrude a little.
Any reason we can’t just run maybe two metal gears with bearings to bridge the gap between motor and drive pulley. It might mean making different pulleys with better mesh but that would eliminate any tension on the motor bearings and the wheel bearings. Thoughts???
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It would have to be completely enclosed- almost sealed. Think of what would happen if a rock got between…
See also: ETOXX direct-drive
I can do that… for science
I am super-confused. Everyone keeps saying “slack side” but they are all referring to the side under the most tension when braking – because during hard braking is when belts skip. So the “slack side” when accelerating is actually the side that takes the most force [during a hard brake].
TL;DR: the slack-side switches sides constantly
I’m confuse.
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I am building the exact same setup. What size belts did you order?
What gearing and belt size do you run?
16/40t 360mm-htd5-15mm
That original picture was a 320mm belt which was to short and left my motors to low. So I moved to a 360mm belt to raise the mounts and extend the motor to the end of the slide.
If you run a 36t instead of 40t just take 20mm off (4t * 5mm) so a 340mm belt for fully extended on the reverse mount
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Some interesting options
https://www.amazon.com/Track-Runner-Bearings/b?ie=UTF8&node=16411321 That link is wierd, it works if you copy and paste Here’s an item you can browse from
https://www.amazon.com/McGill-Follower-Standard-Slotted-Diameter/dp/B0071APBLK/
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Nice dude! Belt looks super “relaxed”. Do you get any skipping at that tension?
Actually I’ll be using a smaller belt, was just testing.
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