THANKS! this info is hard to find…
im wondering if the axle nut plays a major role… because i want to use my mini trucks with the square part of the hanger… the axles actually are female threaded on the inside of the axle and take a bolt that screws into the ends of the axle… the bolt has a wide cap that holds the hub wheel on…
this also begs the question if the landwheel hubs could just be used without that black cap… or is that structurally essential
The urethane is held on by four screw BEHIND the plates so I guess technically you don’t need the cap? No idea. Take a look at this pic. It’s an old V4 I have under my desk at work, the bearing exposure might be a concern.
SWEET…
TBH i only wouldnt use the cap because i assumed the axle would be too long… but it looks like the nut is extremely recessed inside the wheel… so a shorter axle would work… luckily i can make any truck i want becuase the square locking peice is easy to do and i could just experiment with a shorter axle truck… or whatever i end up doing
bearing exposure is fine… but exposure of the magnets would cause big problems eventually…
but it lookss that black diamond shape is some kind of hole exposing the a magnets and stuff… or is that just some kind of black stuff on that secondary plate attatched to the bearing and urethane
I think that black stuff is the lube from the bearing flowing out from the centripetal force
officially buying this…
im thinking of getting one of the older versions… are the problems bad??
exactly what is your goal here? looking for a new drive just to take off the motors? why not get the newest one which we have confirmed to be good?
The older versions are plagued with problems within the ESC, but the motors themselves are fine. It has been mentioned that the sensor wires are in an unknown order and vescs were potentially blown due to that so best to run them sensorless?
i would definitely be keeping everything connected to the landwheel battery… irconically its the trucks i dont need…
then get the NEW one with black wheels that are called L3-X, stay the hell away from the orange wheeled death machines.
However I would suggest you hold off on ordering one at the moment since they are working out a part to strengthen the housing. The L3-X battery is slightly heavier and there have been reports of the battery pulling the housing apart. If you don’t want to wait, a velcro cinch strap would also work to distribute the weight pull to the metal frame instead of the plastic housing.
Hey, i’ve had the L3X for a while now and its my go to board. best remote by a long way, best performance of anything in its price range by a long way, range is not great though but with the batteries being reasonably cheap that is not an issue. the only thing that bugs me is its tendency to cut out under pressure. I can go out fully charged and it will cut out on a slight incline at full whack every time. You have to turn off and restart to get it going again. Bit frustrating but the buzz makes up for it. I believe its a safety issue that is programmed in and @Landwheel if you want some constructive criticism, change that and make the trucks wider this board needs to be low and wide its too fast to be up in the clouds with narrow trucks. still my favourite though. Thanks
if you want to go up steeper hill with the landwheel, don’t go full throttle. Instead, try to build up some speed before the hill if you can and keep the throttle around 3/4 of the way up. I have been able to go up pretty steep hills by doing this. Although it will definitely not be going super fast, you will make it up the hill (at least I have and I weight around 190 lbs). When going up a hill and nailing down the throttle 100% you are pulling too hard on the battery which is too small to handle that kind of draw, which causes the voltage to sag which then triggers the low battery cutoff on the ESC.
TL; DR: To go up hills on a landwheel, limit the throttle to abbout 3/4 of the way up instead of trying to floor it
Ich wiege 110 kg und wenn ich mit m einem V4 den Berg hoch fahre merke ich wie die Leistung langsam zurückgeht also denke ich das ich die c Version habe. 15% Berg
Seit heute macht ein Motor seltsame Geräusche…
Mein v4 schafft gerade mal 3 km und schneidet mich bei 30% Gas raus und komme ca 1 km in schrittgeschwindigkeit . Kaufe jetzt eine v5 Battery
The Range Is terrible (V4) i hope all v4 Boards Common Home to Factory
Hat jemand schon die v5 Battery ausprobiert funktioniert die besser???
V4 Driver … The nee Battery v5 i hope the Problems gone!!!
Hi guys
Hopefully, someone could advise me on this issue. So, I was riding around and at some point, I made a slow turn in which the wheel made a small impact on an edge of the curb.
Since then, in this hub motor, the rattle is presented.
Took it apart checked two bearing and one of them seems to not be aligned. Swap for a new bearing, unfortunately, nothing has changed.
In the video attached, you can hear and see what happens I really would like to sort this out and jump back to riding it.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JEsSpz46z0mVH95W2y_A5_r26c6EMQQH! IMG_0992|500x500
Big thanks in advance
