This is my first time building a E-board, I’m still in the very early stages of trying to make heads and tails of what i actually need for this build, and that is where (hopefully) you guys swoop in with the expert know-how! I’m currently thinking that my build will be Dual Rear Mounted motors on a longboard. The board is supposed to be able carry me (70kg) to and from uni on a single charge, a round trip of about 18 km or 11.2 miles to those who are mectricly impaired I’m very open for suggestions!
Hi Krudte, Welcome!
What you have listed sounds easily achievable.
There are a few things that you need to decide/know.
A. Budget, how much are you willing to spend. DIY E-boards can be cheap or they can be pricey… you get what you pay for. It also depends on how much of the constructing you want to do. You can buy all the parts basically ready to go, or you can try building stuff yourself. The later will cost less but (depending on your craftsmanship) potentially look like a frankenstein-style board. VS buying “pre-made” kits and plugging it all together. the later will cost more.
Some reading on the topic:
B. Do you have long steep hills to climb? If so maybe go Dual drive. If it’s mostly flats you could save some coin and get single drive.
Some reading on the topic:
C. Choosing a deck, what type is good?
Some reading on the topic:
There are currently 3 well know suppliers of custom made eboard parts. You could build a complete eboard parts just from shopping with these suppliers.
There is also a new player recently on the scene who is making some cool decks that integrate all the components into the deck itself, they don’t do motor mounts.
If you want to adapt hobby grade components into your build check out:
My only other suggestion is do lots of reading to get a good foundation of knowledge so you can make an educated decision.
Thank you so much for this! @onloop it’s a great start!
A. My initial “budget” is… well, I’d like to do this build, if possible for 1000$ or so but if i get really in to it i don’t really mind spending more, but part of why I’m doing this is to familiarise myself with tool, for prototyping, CNC, machining and metal work, so the dream would be to make the truck, motor mount, motor pulley etc. myself.
B. The ride is not that steep as i live in Denmark (the flattest country ever) but it is more or less a slight constant incline, with some small semi steep hills.
I have lots of reading to do, I will return once I’m a little smarter! thanks again for a great starting point!
I don’t think you would be able to make a truck that easily with a cnc but motor mount definitely.
Current Thoughts on build:
(Edit)Single Drive Motor: 190kv electric skateboard motor
(Edit)Deck: Riviera 2015 La Rana Longboard Skateboard Deck w/ Grip
(Edit)Battery: S.P.A.C.E cell electric skateboard battery
(Edit)Truck: 184mm The Caliber II Longboard Truck
Wheels: ABEC 11 Wheels 90mm Flywheels
Drive Train: Home Made
Any particular reason you settled on Atlas trucks? If you went with 180mm Caliber IIs you could still make your own mounts but you would also be compatible with all of the ones currently being made and sold. Is the performance of the Atlas trucks good enough to justify that kind of lock-in?
The more you know… The only the reason i looked at the Atlas was the Square’ish arms, for a easier mounting. I know squat about skateboards so it was a guess made solely on appearances. whould you mind explaining why the atlas is not compatible with other mounts? Also honestly i didn’t know about the 180mm Caliber IIs
Just to throw this out there…I have a deal right now on 2 motor mounts for caliber trucks and an enclosure .
I can totally see why you chose them. They have a non-round profile ideal for clamping something to. Caliber IIs also have a D shaped profile that accomplishes the same thing, but most of the community has settled on supoprting Caliber IIs for mounts, although some support Paris trucks which are round in profile.
Trying to figure out this battery mess, I’m currently thinking something like the picture, is that completely crazy? i can’t figure out what i need in order to get the range i want. 16-20 miles.
Wait i guess this wouldn’t work, with any ESC right?, because of the 200A … Oh well. does anyone know what i need battery wise to get that kind og milage(16-20)? with the R-SPEC Enertion motor.
@lox897 Wow combined 20.000mAh I don’t even know if i need that much, they see way to big to fit under a board?, Also whould the 10C not result in a really slow board?
I’m not really sure but I think the max that battery can put out is 200amp but you don’t always have to pull that much. 20000mah should get you what you want. Let the other guys chime in with their opinions.
No. It was combined 10000mah to get 20000mah (20ah) Sorry didn’t see the 10c most people aim for 20-30c
yep, you’d have two groups of 3s in parallel (10,000mah). Those tow groups in series (adding the voltage) will give you 6s equivalent voltages.
if you want that kind of compacity, you can always just go with two 10,000mah 3s batteries, rather than four 5,000mah ones. This would cut down on all that wiring, and you’d only have to charge two batteries instead of four!
also, the 200 amp thing won’t hurt your esc. In the rc world, I used to run a battery with over 100c’s on a 50amp 10th scale esc… there are plenty of people (who race rc cars) who will have lipos with a burst rating of over 250c, and a constant of 200ish. it’s totally fine.
Milage will vary based on the following (so if you list them out, we can give you a pretty good idea of how far you will go per charge)
dual motor or single motor
Side note: is your goal 16-20km, or 16-20 miles? just wondering because us 'mericans use our stupid units that are based on 10’s, 12’s, 3’s, and 5280’s all at the same time…
Super informative THANKS!
Milage wise I need a min. of 16 miles on a single charge.
Weight: 80kg (176 lb.)
Gearing: very open to suggestions, I was loking around, and it seems like 16/36 is the way to go? (PURE guesswork)
Single motor: R-SPEC Enertion 190kv
Hills: few and not very steep
Total mAh: well that’s what I’m trying to find out…
The gearing can be determined only when you know the other variables. Wheel diameter, motor kv, voltage. Desired top speed.
I wrote a detailed article about it:
I suggest going higher voltage. But then you will need a VESC. Which I highly recommend.
ya, for a 175 pound guy on a single motor, I’d either go higher voltage, or drop your gearing… the thread @onloop linked is really helpful, so definitely look at that first (if you haven’t already).
Right now on my board, I am running a 10s with one enertion r-spec and 13/36 gearing; the main difference is I only weight around 140 pounds (I’m 16 year old kid so…)
Also, 190kv on 6s is going to be very slow… I once ran mine on 15/36 gearing (on 6s) and I couldn’t hit above 16 miles per hour. also, the motor was pretty hot after just a small ride, as the lower voltages (and higher gearing…) will lead to a higher amp draw by the motor, which means hotter temps.
if you are dead set on going for 6s, I would (personally) look for a higher kv motor to then gear down. It is always better to gear down a fast motor than gear up a slower but more powerful one. I feel like with your current 190kv setup idea, you will either be stuck with moping around at 12-15 miles per hour, or gearing it faster and burning out your motor…
The easiest thing though would be to get a VESC and go higher voltage. With higher voltage you wouldn’t need as many milli amp hours (mah) because your motor is drawing less amps, and taking advantage of higher voltages instead.
Hope all this helps, and doesn’t make your brain explode… lol good luck!
You would be fine with 10c. You shouldn’t notice a big difference since we actually don’t pull anywhere near 200 amps.
Calculate the Watt Hours divide by 10wh and * .61 miles. That will get you a range which is usually a lot less then what you can get.
Go for 230-260KV for a 6S setup, Gear up as needed as cmatson mentioned.
I’m using those Multistar 10ah 4s batteries and they are 10c. Seem to be fine.