Most commonly steel or stainless steel.
You insert it from the top?? This means that the bulged metal from the rivet is on the bottom, where the enclosure need to be?
Just prefer the top side to be flush. Thats why I choose blind holes with inserts.
Step 1 equipment you need:
Step 2 put washers on bolt:
Step 3 put threaded insert on washer with cutting slots down (or up, as some recommend)
Step 4 with the allen key, screw into the properly sized hole that is the correct depth for your insert:
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I respectfully disagree. If those were in fact cutting slots, why would you need a hole to be drilled in the first place? Your pilot hole is the bore of the insert shaft and the threads do the rest of the work. That slot is for emergency removal with a flathead in the case of stripped threads and also doubles as a flush mount for threaded insert specific tools. I don’t think it holds better one way or another but if that insert strips out, how would you remove that insert aside from drilling the whole thing out? Also that means you’re putting the thread insert counter clockwise. As you tighten the bolt into the insert (counter clock wise will now be tight, drives me nuts), it wants to back the insert out.
This is what a lot of confusion is over. These tapered ended ones have a super deep slot for cutting threads, not the shallow slotted ones that are to be mounted up.
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that’s cool. Just how I learned to do it from a buddy who works on cabinets. But, same principle applies, just flip the insert over and put in the same way. It would still be better on the threads than flathead screwdriver application. I will edit the top part of my post.
You have a good point on emergency removal!
I used these crappy diecast kitchen cabinet inserts at m6 and while they were a bitch to get in they work fine. As they are m6 I only needed 8 on my evo eboosted enclosure.
Told a pal about them and he went and got some for nothing out of the ikea missing parts bin the cheap bastard.
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no, i put the insert through the top of the deck. the flanged part sits on top of the deck, and i counter sink the hole. then you can put grip tape over it
idk. I didn’t use epoxy at first, but after a few rides a few screw were loose, so like added a bit of blue loctite to them and screw them back in. When I went to open up the enclosure to take out the battery last time it naturally pulled the insert out with it. THAT’s when I added epoxy
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Why not use epoxy?
This is your opinion, but i respectfully am not ok with you. You just added th proof in you link: the flat end is used to thread the hole. look in your data sheet and you will see that the conic form (with the threading slot) in down in the second drawing.
Actually, if you click the link you posted and watch the video, it shows the slot going into the material first.
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I think he’s showing an example of a set that does in fact have true cutting threads.
The EZ-Lok ones and other brands utilize the slots for a specialized tool/biT:
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Thank you for being competent enough to read the entire post before replying 
I’ll re summarize for @angeljmm and @nuttyjeff:
If it is a tapered bottom (slightly conical shape at slotted end) the slot is a thread cutter.
If it is a cylindrical shaft with no taper, it is for insertion/removal with a tool (like @thiswasandy posted above), and the slot goes up.
Not sure if this is a language barrier or an attempt at an insult but rude and disrespectful regardless. I hope you have an extra lovely day.
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Sounds like he wanted to say “I respect your opinion, but I don’t agree with it”. Just be nice to us non-native speakers.
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french first language… i was trying to be polite… sorry
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All friendly here! I hope all of our threaded inserts go in strong and straight.
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Emergency removal? Sound the alarms! Or just cross thread a screw into it and back it out without a damn flat head screw driver. The whole reason it would be stripped or crossthreaded is because you haven’t yet figured out how to put a screw in properly anyway.
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Dammit Dave, I was trying to be nice and amenable to other opions.
Agreed, LOL.
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or just take a sharp Philips head screws driver to it and hope it sticks in enough to remove it or you can burn a hole to remove the screw. either one…
A set of these will get you out of the most frustrating of situations.
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