Exactly. Is turning into a mistery! 
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There are several different kinds. The ones with a deep groove are usually self tapping. The ones with a shallow slot or a hex hole are for using a driving bit.
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THis is how I do it, it works…
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Only issue with this CCW mount is that over tightening the screw will strain the insert back out the wrong way. This method is for inserts that aren’t supposed to be permanent. Be careful, I’m a woodworker of over 10 years.
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I usually put a little wood glue on the threads or epoxy on the side of the slot. Mostly I don’t use them, I just use coarse thread sheet metal screws with a little wood glue on the threads.
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@pixelsilva Some threaded inserts have self tapping barbs that will go on the bottom so I think that’s where a lot of confusion comes from (like drywall anchors). The slot on the thread is meant to be used with a specific manufacturer drill bit that will drive the insert without marring any surrounding wood. Most people just use a flathead screwdriver but make sure the head is NO WIDER than the insert itself. You can also use a hex head bolt that is meant to fit that specific thread pattern, tighten it into the insert, and then insert the insert/bolt combo into your hole and ratchet it tight.
Just a tip of general info that will serve anybody well: when picking a drill bit to fit a screw, the diameter of the drill bit should be equal to or barely smaller than the diameter of the screw’s shaft (if you stripped all the threads off)
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I used the ez-lok and was told by a guy who make furniture and uses them that the slotted end goes up so that if you ever strip them they can be taken out. While installing my enclosure I stripped one and had to take it out also had them go in at an angle and had to back them out. So i thinking that it can be both ways the inserts that are stainless are less likely to strip and could be done slotted side down and it will make it look cleaner
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If the deck is dish shaped you need to decide between drilling straight down or perpendicular to the deck.
Straight down will fit the enclosure better, but you might have to grind down rivet nuts on the other side. Perpendicular will match the board, but might be hard to get enclosure on and off.
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Those are not the same threaded inserts
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The rivet nuts are a good way to go if you can cover them up with grip tape
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Blind Rivet Nuts, those are the ones @Eboosted recomend …
He said these are much stronger because are made from steel (won’t break like treaded copper rivets), you don’t tread them into the wood but instead rubber hammer (previously epoxing the hole) and that’ll do it.
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I would not recommend blind rivet nuts for wood… They are made for sheetmetal. True they are much stronger (in sheetmetal) But wood is a changing material and over time there is a chance that the nut will be loose in there (It wouldn’t fall out simply because of the shape). I wouldn’t shoot the idea of rivet nuts but threaded insert with glue just seems a better practice.
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…what are those? made of plastic? Don’t get it?This is exactly how to do it. There should be no confusion. Or even a reason to do it the other way. also, You don’t need epoxy if you drill the right size hole, put them in perfectly marked holes. Then if you can put a screw in without cross threading it you don’t need epoxy.
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True, I just like the smell if epoxy 
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https://www.mcfeelys.com/threaded_inserts_and_t-nuts Type D threaded insert fits the profile of most board materials (hard wood).
the type-d’s that you mention tend to break as it’s easy to over torque
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I just prefer a hex head insert over using the existing threads to mount it. Lasts longer. Plus if you’re drilling into your board you better be using a drill with a torque collar. I could see how the extreme vibrations may cause concern. Coarse threaded insert for hard wood FTW. Bonus points for using a drill press for plumb.
yeah the drill press is clutch.
@Wisp i use blind rivets, but i drill all the way through and insert them into the board from the top. it will never back out.
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