I have to agree with you @lowguido one single box is much easier & offers a nicer finish overall… it definitely means you can’t have a flex deck though!
@longhairedboy The velcro straps are way too long, so I just stuffed the excess underneath the enclosure. You can’t even notice it. With the velcro straps, the cover won’t fit with these turnigy 7.2 ah hardcase batteries.
That’s going to look pretty good once its all together. You could get some of that black plastic conduit to wrap the wires up between the boxes and you’ll have a pretty durable rig. Do those boxes seal pretty tight? This looks like it would be splash/mud proof which is always a bonus.
These enclosures don’t come with gaskets, but I’m sure they’re somewhat waterproof. Like I said previously, with the velcro straps and these tall 4s Lipos doesn’t allow me to put the cover on, so they’ll be exposed, but I don’t plan on riding this in the rain. I might just keep it how it is. I can’t really spend anymore money in this.
Scissors, sandwhich bags, and some black duct tape will do to keep the crud and water out until you can figure out a solution to the lid problem.
For clarity, i’m not suggesting that you duct tape the scissors to the board. Only that you use them to cut the bags apart and to shape.
Although having blades poking out of your board may be useful in situations where you are being pursued by a local war party.
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I have been meaning to post this for some time but forgot. I have used clevis pins to mount my battery enclosure on one of my boards where I wanted quick access to the battery box to change batteries if required.
I used a silicone grommet under the R clip to hold it and absorb vibration. the clevis pins were just drilled straight through the board with a tight tolerance, and countersunk at the top.
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I’ve always thought about the cotter pins. Great idea just like an RC car shell 
@lowGuido Do the clevis pins do a good job of keeping the batteries and electronics secure? What size do you use?
I have never had one come off or loose. So they seem to hold pretty good. The size is 6mm if i recall correctly.
Can you secure the enclosure down tight to the board so that it conforms to the concave with Clevis pins?
I’m gonna say yes.
having said that my enclosure is carbon fibre which has been molded to the concave of the board already.
They have this cool racing aesthetic. I want to associate them with pins they use on muscle car hoods. Do they rattle? oh man do i hate rattle. That’s one of the reasons i banned metal boxes from my garage.
No they don’t rattle. as I mentioned above I put silicone grommets on the pins so the fit is very tight. (blue in the picture kinda hard to see)
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oh ok yeah i can see the little clear grommets now. Nice!
they are blue… but yeah I’ll take some better photos soon.
Nice! I have some 1/4 turn dzus for motorcycle fairings i’m planning on using in my e-Chief build… I have a couple extras i’m trying to figure out how to use now before i get the e-Chief back and start working on it’s CF.
I plan on running a thin neoprene gasket around under the enclosure and also would want to avoid rattles! I haven’t gone so far as to ban metal boxes… but i’m close. 
Very nice! Looks nice and snug.
@lowGuido I like this solution a lot. When I was planning my build I didn’t want to have to unscrew 4-6 bolts to gain access to the electronics or batteries, so I chose an enclosure with a door. I’m paying for it with reduced ground clearance. These clips make me reconsider the choice!
Has anyone had any problems with overheating escs on a fully enclosed case?
I’m planning on 3D printing a case and unsure if I’ll need to allow for air flow to keep everything cool. If no one has had any issues I’ll be going for a water tight seal.