cid:D1150618-3703-49B0-87A9-EC5D92CCA9A0@telus
the new Turnigy SK8 6374-149KV Sensored Brushless Motor (14P) is awesome . Love it , better torque, more rpm’s and !!! better range .
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Glad you like em!
Thanks so much for all your commentary. This is definitely helpful. Have not been logging on much. Currently doing a few 3D printer projects as I wait for all the pieces to slowly trickle in lol.
I will certainly be figuring out the best way for me to get the heat out from my FOCBOX. I have a few ideas in mind. Using CPU paste is a great idea!
Unity right? I bought one of these and it’s on the way. Fits the unity very nicely
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Are you planning on shortening the fins? They seem quite long
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Definitely depends on space I have haha
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Would love to see a list aswell!
Aye, the Unity. Can’t wait till it comes 
I will certainly look into this heatsink. Looks like it’d bleed a ton of heat!
Its been a while, but the FOCBOX Unity JUST came in the mail! (Literally an hour ago)
Initial notes;
XT-60 (Not 90)
Wires and connectors all seem a bit small.
The whole thing is super small actually. Almost concerning so haha.
Luckily I happened to already have an XT60-XT90 adapter lying around!
I also still had the 5.5mm female bullet connectors that came with the TB Motors/ The FOCBOX came with bullet connectors for whatever size it is (4mm I think? Does not list it on the site) The nice thing was, the solder end of the 4mm slipped right into the solder end of the 5.5mm! I just slipped them together like so
And soldered them (it could not have been any easier)
Then added some shrink wrap
All ready!
So far the build is looking amazing!
Re-using the 3S Lipos I had for my first build for a slim 12S 5000MaH pack.
The motor mounts from @Idea are amazing!! Super sturdy, went together very easily.
Also shiny aluminum 
However, one thing still remains. The TB motor shaft is too long, and would end up digging into the wheel. So, I need to cut a bit off the end. (You can see that I am unable to push the wheel all the way in to align the pulleys)
I’ll need to go get an angle grinder 
Getting excited!!
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You can use a dremel or like me a cheap copy of it for cutting.
It is very important that the motor is fully covered because of metal chips.
Or you take a fine metal saw, hold it on the shaft and give throttle 
but it could be more tricky to cover the motor.
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Ahahaha, thank you for the suggestions! I stuck a plastic ziplog bag over the motor and very gently cut away the end of the shaft with an angle grinder.
Question for you Unitu FOCBOX users out there. Or generally anyone who knows anything about versions and updating the Unity
I am unsure if updating the Unity is the same as updating the (Singular? lol) FOCBOX
What the heck do I do lol
Do you have the focbox ui app on an android phone?
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Ahaha, I forgot to actually send the post a day ago.
Yep Venom, I found The solution. I had the FOCBOX tool, not the FOCBOX UI downloaded. Also I found the ‘update’ button and clicked it, hoping I wouldn’t mess anything up.
It worked though so thats 
Promptly took it out for a spin, and Oh My Lawd is it smooth!
The terrible roading that would usually cause leg-numbing vibrations on my longboard is now smooth as a baby’s bottom.
Its been raining quite a bit lately though, and I still need to design and print enclosures, so for now, that is all I can say.
As it stands now;
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Exactly how a maiden voyage should look! Keep up the good work man, looking good
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This is ideal for jumping as it is.
Can’t get any lighter than that
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Thank you thank you!
I am running the bare minimum to see how it fares in terms of lightness and a small battery profile. They are, however, 20C 5Ah packs, which put out 100Amps max. Great for a single-motor longboard. Not so great for a dual-motor mountainboard. Batteries are expensive though, so I am more then happy to use these for now, despite the fact that they only give little more then half of what the rest of the system can take.
Tiny tiny update.
Organized the wires and focbox a little with some zipties and heatshrink for abrasion protection.
Also added an extension wire between the focbox and the battery so my right foot actually has room, and I dont keep unplugging the battery with my toes.
Designing my focbox box
Contemplating a ‘flexible’ battery housing design that will flex with the board, but still allow the batteries to lay side by side as shown. (Wow that is SUPER slim. I am very happy to not have a GIANT box between my feet) (No offense to those who do have giant boxes. Personal preference)
Need to figure out wiring the sensors in. Starting from a stop is near impossible at the moment.
Took it out in the field behind my house. Its really weird transitioning from a longboard to this; I keep bracing for bumps that this board makes negligable. Also the soles of my feet get sore super fast from all that bracing.
Right motor seems to be acting a little funky.
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small thing to add
the longer the wires the higher the inductive voltage spikes can be. that shouln´t be a big issue for everything that is around 50-70cm, but non the less, if you run 12s better hold them short and don´t run the wires in circles like you did on the wires from the battery to the esc.
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Right!
This was simply a short term solution using two 2’ wires I had on hand (Hence the little loop of slack wire). Once I have the battery casing finished I’ll cut the wire down to the exact length needed so as not to waste anything for future projects
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I feel you on the sore heels. Especially the back one. Such a different game!
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Interested in your final mounting solution of the FOCBOX Unity. Mine just arrived today. Our setups are quite similar. Following
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Hi there… Can you share your measurements to apply on the twistar hubs? Got the same here 
thanks