No they dont they use aluminium
Not typically. If Yu made your aluminum motor plate/clamp a flat profile that didnāt need flipped. It will reduce cost and make it a simple mill.
Yeah it doesnāt need to be flipped but will still need that side ways mill for the clamp. Also I canāt figure out how to make it symmetrical because space is super tightā¦ I am down to hairs on every sideā¦
The gears need to be flipped thoughā¦ thereās a bearing that helps to keep it nice and axial around the truckā¦
Makes sense I didnāt see the wheel side. Now that you mention it it doesnāt need flipped. And the clamp portion is easily drilled with a press.
Okay awesome guysā¦ give me some more time to do more testingā¦
Then Iāll open it up to the community to hopefully get some help to put together something more durableā¦
Pictured is 15mm, but I since dropped it down to 12mm
Ok thanks, you may have saved me many hours in 3d printing
How is 12mm holding up? I was gonna use 16mm at First, but If 12 is sufficient i will definitely do thatā¦ Printing these gears takes alooot of time
I went with 12mm because the spur I have is also 12mmā¦
Doesnāt make much difference for me between 12 and 15mmā¦
Try with 0.6mm Nozzle, cut down my gear printing time from ~11.5h to about 6h
How is the precision of the teeths with such a big nozzle?
Itās no issue for me with Mod 2 teeth. Iād wager Mod 1.5 would work too and maybe even mod 1 depending on how exactly the teeth are printed.
Btw, you can see my larger geared drive in my build post here:
Iām still tweaking the smaller one
Let us know for updates
I am doing the same thing for PU wheels
Latest version of my geared driveā¦ Metal mount, slot in gear (no more 6 x M6), encased gear cover.
M3 bolts to fortify the flywheel adapter
Iāve done the same thing. Mount in gear
Please share the files now
How does it run?
I can see the spiderwebbing of grease,is it working ok?
Here you have a pic of my take on a gear drive for street wheels (80-110)
Not trying to hijack your thread