In what way are these better ?
The details I don’t see on their site but I’m guessing could be a bunch of stuff but ultimately it will stay cooler and run more efficiently than something similar sized.
Better copper fill. Higher winding insulation temp ability. Higher temp curved mags. Thinner steel laminations. Just better design. Cooling better.
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Not that I’ve noticed. But I don’t ride for long enough to even get the motor warm. I’ll try a longer ride this weekend
5/6 of the Torqueboards motors my roommate and I have failed. 4 due to magnets and one due to sensor failure. Only one of them had seen over 500 miles
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How so? They are only 2600 watts and rated up to 8s…
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This is classic statistical analysis of product failure. Not marketing, not anecdotal evidence, etc.
Then why didn’t you?
I only waited a couple of days… there’s was a similar thread to this but for vescs. It derailed to a motor discussion like this and I was waiting for the topic to be split
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Maybe hacker are just the same as everything else and hard to find tests and looking around hard to say where the best are made
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I’m just curious, I can’t find any info on usage or caps over 8s, so I was cinsfused 
Racerstar 200kv motors have been good for me they are fairly cheap for the quality and being sensored. They are also replacements for evolve boards and ollin had sold them as rebranded at one point
I have had good luck with racestar 5065 140kv. Run for about a year without issue, I ride in heavy rain a lot and honestly expected the bearings to be dead by now. I have had other bearings on my board die in that time from loosing the lubrication.
These have even run under water when I went through a 4 inch deep puddle.
Pretty sure they use legit NSK bearings with some long life lubrication.
I opened them when new and coated the sensor board. No maintenance since.
The main downsides is they don’t make them in all black anymore and they are not the most powerful.
I wish racestar would make 63xx size motors in the same design.
These are 28 pole. Wouldn’t that mean that the erpm will be really high on these at the 10s or 12s people run?
I’m pretty sure most motors we run are 14 pole?
theres no real voltage limit on motors. the voltage limit of the wire enamel is thousands of volts or something and not a concern till thousands of hours above a high temp. the motor bearings have a limit. sometimes places put a voltage limit in the interest of keeping the amps down but we have better control than they thought, …you can take any motor and spin it at 22s and at 1000amps! the amps of course for a fraction of a second and the voltage isn’t an issue as long is the motor doesn’t spin so fast as to mushroom or the bearings explode or seize or something. all the numbers advertisers use are made up. wattage voltage amperage. somehow id heard hacker were good but the one test I found showed just as well as the …stk (or whatever the hobbyking sells them as, the letters i forget haven’t had one in years. )
with the vesc and data logging and maybe a temp sensor would make it really easy, someone could do a real review. a standardized test …as it seems in the wider world for electric outrunners is not possible. they have no test and just make stuff up. but that’s all testing for most efficient transformation of electricity to mechanical force and in the electric skateboard world a good review means it didn’t break. and you can get some enamel and brush it on for that. with a slightest loss in your motors electrical performance but no one is counting. but some of those coatings wont trap the heat but instead give it a path out and work better than not.
the outrunners are likely designed for planes and to be somewhat light but the magnet field is escaping out the back and with a steel pressed on sleeve or even glued I bet it would make a better motor.
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This is my experience too with destroying many brushless motors in RC models. Voltage max is irrelevant so long as you don’t exceed the load capacity of the motor. Max Amps on the other hand is an issue too many amps and you melt the insulation on the windings. Amps is also proportional to the load put on the motor. Choose the wrong gear ratio or propeller size and you can kill a motor in a few seconds from overheating. On the other side if the motor is under loaded you can run much higher voltage without issue, until the g-force of the rpm starts to rip the motor apart. Which you would never reach in an e-skate application.
Also to hummies point the specs from manufactures are impossible to trust and every one of them seems to use a different method to determine max current / voltage / watts. Watts is really the most important one as heat handling is the critical spec.
Agreed, and in lieu of good data on long term reliability, that means all we really have to go on is max current ratings. Sadly, even max current specs are often kind of made up by retailers. So in the end, all I really go off of is:
- higher Kv = more current = generally better
- convenience features (keyways, pre-ground motor shaft flat, flexible leads)
- cost
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What you think is the max temperature you can/should run a motor?
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From my understanding the actual max limit is determined by the exact makeup of the
- Insulation spec on the windings
- Magnet material
- Magnet glue or other glues used in assembly.
But no one tells you these exact details unless it’s a really high end motor.
So for general rule (unknown materials) under 60c is safe over 80c going towards unsafe. If you put your hand on the motor and it burns your in less than 5 seconds its too hot. Very well specced motors could be happy at 120c but these are rare. Under 100c should be ok for most motors but I would not encourage that, best stay below 60c for long life.
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I asked Maytech some while ago about their sealed motors’ winding insulation temp rating, and they said it’s 100°C.
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