Wel there are always rumors of cheap ones lol I thought I saw one for $100 by @jacobbloy or @Hummie
Correct me if I’m wrong
Also what about a sensored hub motor? As long as the esc can take the amps it would be fine right?
@hummie is selling hub motors for cheap, but correct me if I’m wrong, to get comparable performance out of one you would need to spend money elsewhere. -good etc, more voltage /more Ah/more $$$
Bells ring and they send for me when my name is mentioned!
I was selling them for pretty much cost at 100$ each to suck people in but now 160$. But I don’t sell singles so 320$ for 2
The cost of two mounts, two motors, two motor pulleys, two wheel pulleys, belts, and the two wheels is likely more. Long term it’d be cheaper with hub motors for sure even if not up front as the only thing to replace is the rubber at 20$. And bearings
I don’t know I haven’t tried other escs but given the vesc is so awesome it’s worth the money. The only similar sine wave esc available before the vesc isn’t nearly as good and it’s big and cost like 440$ out of Germany
Honestly, everyone who wants to use cheap parts, will fall into the false economy if they don’t head the warnings. @onloop broke down in a video somewhere the difference between the r-spec and other motors, literally showing you the difference by opening the r-spec and other motors up. You can believe they are over priced, but it is really not.
Do you want a low quality bearing in your motor breaking when your riding 20+ mph down the street?
Trust me, its not fun…
@evoheyax - Do you even know what your talking about? lol
What motors have you even tried? You do know the changes are standard features for any other motor. They are still made within the same factories as other motors.
Even a crappy motor will last 3k miles. It’s based upon if the rider actually knows how to use the motor properly.
You can take a high quality motor and burn it out.
1 Like
Being that the bearing in the r-spec is the same exact bearing in the tacon Bigfoot your logic doesn’t work…
1 Like
This is a funny reoccurring topic given its onloop’s site and he’s mumm about the details of what’s inside and simply calls it premium and makes rediculous claims.
Where’s the video of the motor tear down?
My comparison of price above isn’t really fair though as it’s compared to two motors. A single 63mm motor setup is cheaper.
1 Like
Here’s the video in question:
Wow. I already felt that “premium” was a feeling not a number with these motors and this further educates me on that. You pick it up and can feel the difference. Except if you were to really feel the difference it would be heavier
Yesterday I read the peak was 100 amps. Wow.
I appreciate the floppy wires but other than that…blue balancing goo, got it, epoxy on the stator, got it(but not everywhere luckily), magnet wire that does 180c, no big deal, especially since the temp of the magnets can get to isn’t revealed. Shielded bearings aren’t as protective as sealed but probably fine shielded, the little ring to help position the magnets, got those, machine tolerances?..such an empty video. This educational video doesn’t educate you on crap. Pure sales hype to the point of dis-education.
2 Likes
I’m not saying you can’t pick up these cheaper motors, and still get a functions, reliable board. The bearing is probably a bad argument, because yes, the bearing either way should not break. But its the same argument to be made with lipos. I have had no issues with lipos swelling and blowing up, others have. Some of the things he does may seem unnecessary, but you act like he is getting these motors dirt cheap and selling them for massive profits. @onloop has hinted that he pays more than $70 per motor himself, which would hint that his markup may be around 25%.
Where as I would be willing to bet apple has much higher markup than 25%.
I noticed the difference in his motors from the cheap china motors I used at first. The feel more solid, heavier, and had thinker wires. The china motors I used burned up, enertions did not. Did my settings contribute? Of course, but if you can’t say there is no substantial difference except price.
Do we say all cars are the same quality? NO.
When I bought my subura, the understanding in the subura community is that their transmissions are the most durable on the market. You can’t argue all transmissions are the same, as my sister bought a Toyota, and guess what, shes on her third transmission at 120k. I’m still on my first, and probably will for another 200k. Is there some luck to it? yes. But when parts are manufactured with more work, thus costing more money, you are less likely to have manufacturing defects that take time to show up.
What about hoverboards? Are they all the same?
Of course not. As much as I hate those things, it kinda sucks for the ones who actually are using good batteries, because their business is being destroyed by others who don’t care what crap they put out.
The old saying “you get what you pay for” is true in our consumerist world where everyone wants everything as cheap as possible.
If they manufacture the motors correctly, the sk3 should work great (as it has for many). But you just need to be that unlucky 1 in some large number to have a defect that doesn’t show up until it breaks.
I like cheerleaders… 
I’m jk… I’m just being a troll lmfao.
2 Likes
Troll away lol… All in good fun
Instead of motor sellers coming up with a continuous max amp or wattage limit based on an ideal race in the Arctic they should just tell what temp the magnets can get to so people don’t ruin their motors. And If they claim a “peak” it’s an even more empty statement…what does it mean…one second?
Going off of what is actually revealed about these motors the best thing that can be said about them, for me, is the floppy wires and keyway already done. Any claims at better performance or premium parts are only sales talk.
How much trolling can be done till someone says no trolling? Or how much questioning of enertion motor claims can happen before…someone…steps in and clears the air. Or cleans the trolls out
Check out okayplayers video testing some motor options. R-SPEC is the last motor you need to buy.
1 Like
There are a lot of things being tested there not simply the motor. Gearing being the biggest. I’d say the motor isn’t being tested at all really.
How bout send your motor with the same gearing and everything up a mountain and see how it fairs…against the tacon. What temp will they hit. Other than temp being an issue there’s not much to worry about other than the wires coming out of the motor deteriorating.
good example of false economy I harp on about… This kind of thing happens to nearly everyone it just rarely gets spoken about. each motor cost min $50/$60 each.
eventually, most people will realise that it is actually smarter (aka more cost effective) to go a premium option in the beginning…
so what motors were they?
How bout adding a coating of epoxy or polyurethane to the windings to make it durable? Otherwise what would make yours more durable? I like the flexy wires but what else is there?
What’s premium?