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Monster Board | Trampa HolyPro 35º | 80100 180kv 8kW | FatBoy SS Gear Drive | 12S 3P 18Ah | Dual FocBox


#422

Yes for both.

Well like I mentioned, vesc doesn’t handle current limiting really well… I am already getting absolute over current errors with 200A numbers, so I dont want to just burn it. Thermals maybe but still valid option, but somehow I don’t want to spend more money on focboxes don’t have budget for them in upcoming months :smiley: I have pretty much enough torque right now, definitely way more than it was before :slight_smile: I can jump through places where 6384 were not performing :slight_smile:


#423

That is why.

Iron losses are small in our applications, especially with these larger motors than spin much slower.


#424

Not really if u knew how much force it needs to spin those motors on free roll… If wheel looses friction it freaking slides not spins… I can’t imagine how it would be with lower reduction gearbox… Impossible to pull board :wink:

The magnetic force of magnets are huge and it needs current to overcome that… Plus it doesn’t have free roll you let go current and it instantly slows down don’t even need to brake ;D

I filmed the way back from work on helmet will upload later :slight_smile:


#425

They could be, but again, we don’t know how much of these motors are really engineered and how much is guess work

They could just increased the stator diameter without paying attention to the higher flux being pushed with higher currents, it could be saturating at a lot of places, since @Kug3lis says that they are getting hot supports this


#426

If these motors were hooked up to the HV ESC your building, could that potentially lower the temp since it’d be running less amps and more voltage?


#427

Probably by little :slight_smile:


#428

Went today to cyclopark in the UK really nice place have done a bunch of rides, tried out bicycle off-road track but it just isn’t made for esk8 have fallen more times than I have ever fallen while riding all the boards :smiley:

This morning had to do some modifications on motor hall sensor dead so changed one motor to sensorless thought I will have some issues but there weren’t any didn’t even felt any difference…

Also flashed focbox with no limits firmware and set motors to 130A and abs max to 180A

And oh boy it changed everything… At first was everything nice until I was standing on hill stop light and as always pressed bit more of throttle as it was uphill oh boy my board started making wheelie while going uphill… Later on every time I push more throttle it lifts up even without any help some people were like WOW in cyclopark but for me it as bit scary as I don’t know yet how to balance that stuff :blush:

Heatsink managed to keep focboxes under 70ºC max I saw was 68ºC while speeding on the race track. Also, note that in colder times super flat surfaces for pnuemies are scary as tires are cold and they don’t stick much to the surface and you start flowing on the road which is also scary :smiley:

In other news received the tracking for ARC200 can’t wait to get them here (Perfect birthday precent @tabbytabb) :slight_smile:

I am editing some shots on the phone as its faster than my laptop and will be uploading bunch of videos and stuff which had happened through several days :slight_smile: Everything else I will put on my Instagram if any interested to follow :slight_smile:

Tried to do some filming (Pulling a guy on the longboard with evolve trucks no power at around 20mph :smiley: )

Other videos still editing and etc :stuck_out_tongue:


#429

Hypersmooth or gimball :slight_smile: ??


#430

Both :smiley: Hypersmooth and gimbal :slight_smile: Gimbal is good when I need to move the view around as without it I would need to adjust with hand every time I am using stick :blush:


#431

Okay, i think i gonna buy the Gopro 7, for the hypersmooth feature, so it doesn´t always require a gimball, to get smooth video.


#432

Went through some logs damn 125A on motor :smiley:

When my board wants to drop me off on purpose :smiley:

Also had a chance to test race track with hyper smooth asphalt but tires were bit cold and bit sliddy but still was fun to ride :slight_smile:


#433

Also this is the track I tested gear drive but was scared to bring my GoPro into it as I have fallen there so many times or went of the road and etc :slight_smile: Was super fun for once… wouldn’t want to do it again :smiley: Too narrow and way too many sudden turns


#434

So on Friday I have received the package from @tabbytabb with goodies :stuck_out_tongue:

You also getting XT90S to another adapter don’t remember name and USB cable and some bolts :slight_smile:

I was not going again solder bullets on my motor leads so I just went and made 8 to 5mm adapters. 5mm I needed to remove the lip to increase the surface area touching the inside of 8mm bullet :slight_smile:

Applying some solder on the bullet itself before sinking it in 8mm bullet solder pool :smiley:

As there was no CAN cable supplied with the kit I looked up the docs in wiring and managed to make myself can cable with PWM input using fly lead and another PWM input lead (I don’t know if intentionally but PWM cable pins matches CAN on THRO cable :smiley:

All connected, now just need to figure out how to mount and have some heatsink :smiley:

“Recycling” old unused parts :smiley: (That’s my first gear drive baseplate)

First power on :slight_smile:

No white smoke so then connected to my machine.

Mechanical part was everything really nice, I like those connectors and etc stuff, but software it still bit lacks :slight_smile:

So apparently the GUI application doesn’t work on Windows 7. Had to download windows 10 and install on virtual machine :slight_smile: Thanks god I have super quick internet :smiley:

First connection, tried to run setup wizard and got some exceptions (Division by zero as a developer don’t remember last time I have seen this exception somewhere) Probably because it didn’t read the values or etc from ESC at startup :slight_smile: Restarting the app helped.

So I tried to follow the tutorial from @tabbytabb youtube video for setup ARC200 for esk8

I did a whole wizard and etc, but for some reason, my motor wasn’t reacting to remote at all. I see in telemetry tab that values move on raw throttle input :slight_smile:

So I redid again and after clicking write to flash my motors started making really high pitch noise and I saw OV error on UI and quickly disconnected power after restarting nothing was happening so I tried again 5-6 times the wizard and it finally worked.

Finally got motor spinning. The first impression feels like motors spinning a bit more silent than VESC (probably because of higher PWM frequency). But it has this not nice feeling when even after releasing throttle ramping down is too slow and it keeps going longer than VESC… Couldn’t find anything related this in the settings maybe it is the way it works.

I couldn’t find the CAN option in the configuration so I had to make Y splitter for PWM input… I need to buy those RC receiver male connectors because my simple PCB header pins don’t really work well :smiley:

So after mounting everything on the deck using trusty zip ties, I went out to try it out :slight_smile:

Sensorless startup for some reason didn’t really want to pick it up and also both motors feel really out of sync torque wise, but after spinning up they reach equilibrium between each other and feels nice for that speed. Then like I always try out the brakes to feel how they feel compared to VESC. The brakes don’t know if it works incorrectly or I didn’t configure something correctly but they work like they block the motor for like 100ms release and block again until it stops. While riding at higher speed this is really bad as it makes the whole board jump back and forward. Also at 0 speed brakes do something strange with motors it doesn’t lock but it keeps knocking. So I decided not to risk and went back home :frowning: Had to skip an event ride.

@tabbytabb maybe you can help me with configuring it? I really like the design of it and it looks really solid ESC but at the moment I am switching back to my focboxes.

Here are my configuration files maybe they will help.


Freefly Robotics new universal motor controller, ARC200. Thoughts?
#435

I had issues with the GUI ss well, mine were mostly resolution issues (couldn’t see everything and no scroll bars). I’ve got another notebook I’m gonna try but I’m waiting in a couple of more parts to be able to finish. I’ll PM you when I get mine running.


#436

Sorry to see you had some troubles getting this going. I’m the software/hardware designer on the project and hopefully we can get your board working better!

Unfortunately the GUI is currently only compatible with windows 10. The divide-by-zero bug was identified recently (as you suspected, it is caused by parameters not successfully initially downloading). This will be addressed in an upcoming release.

As for the motors stopping slowly with no throttle (slower than VESC), this is completely normal. Your video is not anything that should concern you. If you want them to stop faster, you can use the ‘Current Command Offset’ to do this, make the value more negative than the default value.

Seems like the biggest issue you’re facing is the regen current going into a fault state. The phenomenon occurring every 100ms is the drive detecting some fault and self-protecting. We need to figure out why this is happening to get smooth braking. Before digging in too deep on this, can you make sure your drive firmware is the latest? It will tell you at the top of the telemetry tab of the GUI. If it is not 1.1.5, download the latest firmware from the wiki (v1.1.5 https://freeflysystems.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/FRP/pages/269320215/Arc200+Firmware+Updates), update your drive (and GUI if it is not also up to date), then see if it works better. The firmware update instructions are on that page. Since you were having problems previously, I’d recommend not loading your old configuration file in. Instead, re-run the setup process with the new firmware as there have been some improvements to the process and default values.

If you’re still having problems after that, I’ll give a few suggestions on parameter adjustments to tweak to see if we can isolate the problem.

What is the model of the motor you are using?


#437

Hey Chris,

Thanks for pointing out the issues :slight_smile: I think I have probably 1.1.4 version as far as I remember. I will try to upgrade the firmware. But I will only do it on weekend as I am riding my board daily and don’t want to make it unavailable :stuck_out_tongue:

The motors are APS 80100 180KV 8kW rated 18S 180A

Thanks for helping, I will try to upgrading firmware and try it out again I would love to get it working.

Aurimas


#438

So today I just checked how my gears look after emergency stopping from 50km/h to 0 in like 10meters and stopping right in front of car like 1m away from its hood… Damn I loved my gears, big ass motors, bindings and lipos for managing to stop me like this…

After looking at graphs I am happy I don’t have Li-Ions…

Took quickly lid off to inspect the gears everything apart grease changed color looks OK :slight_smile: no visible wear or chipping on gears.

I love my small tool for making life easier :smiley:

No more than a minute on enclosure bolts :slight_smile:

So yeah I can say that FatBoy SS is heavy duty gear drive surviving -100A/motor braking :smiley:


#439

Do you mean Lipo’s?

EDIT: Nevermind, thought this was your other build with the custom enclosure between your legs.
With that said, how come youre glad you dont have Liion??


#440

Imagine the p count required to brake at 100A and I guess he would have hit the car at the typical brake strenght that is set for li-ion.

Lipo handles higher charge rates at ease (the Graphene labeled lipos at least).

My guess is that his board would not have issues stopping regardless with those humongous motors.


#441

Yes, Li-Ion is bad on charging currents for e.g. if I had 12S20P any 18650 battery pack it would be 20P * Capacity (3Ah) * 1C (that’s maximum safe charging rate for 18650) = 60A maximum charging current. At 2C 18650 starts sweating a lot. So now imagine pushing 200A into battery its more than 3C… So in the end I would had my crotch on fire and have hitted the car :smiley: