To large of a backlash puts all the pressure on the tips, which can cause stripped gears. The majority of pressure should be at the bottom arc of the tooth so the pressure is on the meat of the tooth. However to close of backlash and there is constant pressure on both of the surrounding teeth. Pressure should only be on one tooth at a time.
This should help explain how a gear functions
You can set backlash by moving the motor in or out on the mount in the motor screw slots.
Here was the DIY
Backlash sounds like that on straight gears. Personally I love that sound. Here is my 1/5 off road buggy on the tarmac.
Steel gears, straight cut => backlash whine galore
Helicals do too… Just depends on the power going through them and the backlash. Ie my s2000 trans sounds like a racecar, but my KIA is an Eco car and the gearbox is setup for silence.
I know i went through your build but looks like I missed alot of the details 
Alright will go over it and probably best to just PM you instead of filling up the thread with my noob questions 
Yes they do. However all else being equal straight cut gears make more noise. The S2000 is a fun car, I am sure you are enjoying yours,
Oh I don’t disagree, I was just saying all gears make noise if you put enough power through them. 
Edit: @taz yes I am. My board is smiles per mile, and the S is smiles per gallon
Sorry for the derail Kugs
Okay so I took a look at my gear drives and now totally get what you mean!
Sorry haven’t taken it apart yet until I can mount it on the truck(which I’m still waiting on @kug3lis for)
Definitely a good amount of space for adjusting the distance between the gears for changing backlash. I try to keep these away so I am not reminded that assembly is still ways off 
Thanks @kug3lis for these awesome drives and for not flagging us out of here with not so related stuff lol
No worries your content is always interesting 
I just received some hoodies for these cold morning rides 
maybe get one of these shipped together with FB240? 
Make me got gears decal that will fit right there. Lol
Haha, mad max style 
EDIT: Send me dimensions will see what I can do
Some updates still struggling with the motors all of them so far failing with same problem 
. Added lights for dark rides Changed tires to Trampa Threads with hard compound its like different story compared to previous ones. Will be drilling new holes for rear feat binding to make it parallel to board my feet gets number because of that -45 angle to front…
Reused old tire as rubber dampener
Some london ride pictures
Almost killed myself once…
It looked like nice going downhill until last meter…
New lights look sick
Also after upgrading battery to 3P now I am getting like 30mi range witch is more than enough for everything
Small upgrade to my slow charger as my fan basically died yesterday 
Before upgrade:
After upgrade:
Also finishing up my filming get up for new gear drive reviewing 
I hate those gopro tool less fixing and etc I prefer old school bolts and nuts
Now just to wait for gopro itself 
(Next day UPS delivery…)
So my first GoPro Hero 7 Black test with Feiyu G6 gimbal, on backpack strap (intend to use for hyperlapse) and helmet mount (this time got real GoPro mounts for helmet so difference with before ones are like day and night that gray stuff just stuck and didn’t moved other cheaper I needed to wait until it sticked or etc before I could mount camera
With gimbal
On backpack strap
On helmet (You can see stabilisation working as helmet moves but camera doesn’t)
So yesterday I received new parts for this build: FatBoy SS Drive with 1:5 and 1:4 configurations, and 2 x 80100 180kv motors.
I was doing hyper-lapse for assembling everything but the battery died and didn’t have yet time to edit as it was pretty long one but I have some pictures from assembling everything
Soldering those 5mm bullets on these leads there pain in the ass maximum soldering power plus several minutes holding on the wire to melt them together…
Preparation for assembling the drive train
So after removing the board from the “work table” I instantly felt that these motors are from another dimension… When I was assembling it had some hard resistance to sping the motor but it would that much that pulling board felt like I am towing a truck I didn’t expect it. The magnetic forces of these motors are in another dimension…
TIP FOR MYSELF: Implement board pulling feature in ESC To assist pulling with the same RPM from motors
Went out for outside and boy this gear drive is silent compared to inner gear
This motors transformed this board to dark side… They are massive… At first I thought I got wrong kv rating as it felt slow until I saw the speed reading that I am almost top speed but it didn’t felt like it at all.
It has nice torque but feels like it need bit more voltage and current to feel satisfied it feels like they are still starving… Running 80A motor and 80A battery… Motor constantly reaches motor amps limits and I have seen a dozen time I reached 80A on battery… So far heatsink of FocBox manages to keep up with cooling
I thought that bigger motors will heat up less but that’s not true as they are eating more current so based on IR it releases much more heat but I think the sizes make it dissipate that heat much quicker…
The battery side its bit sad right now as power consumption increased to around 20Wh/km per motor I am getting only 20km range with 12s 18Ah setup. But thank god still no sagging problems
5mm bullets with 12awg wire holds up without issue, no heating up detected.
The ride to work felt pretty nice, definitely lost some speed downgrading from 200kv to 180kv But I still have 1:4 setup but I don’t think I will switch anytime soon
If it doesn’t going to rain this evening, I will go to Hyde Park to do some filming and try some offroad as I haven’t yet unleashed its power
@tabbytabb can’t wait to test out ARC200 as these motors need POWAR and focbox’es bit struggling with them 
For comparison same route but on 6384 same driving style same settings
Looks nice. Great build 
Had those monsters on my boards also (modified) and with encoders. I ended up running 6384 instead. The extra weight and loss of range with these 80xx motors just didn’t add up. But it was great fun building. I used a vesc6 with 120 motors amps.
Did you also had resistance in motors to freely spin?
Can you give a tutorial of how you wwire them up? Saw another photo where you wired the receptacle back into the standard connector.
You mean sensor connector?
I just wired simple JST connector to pins from 1 to 6 the same on JST side same on receptacle side
