Fuse is a good idea - at least it helps when things go wrong like a faulty component or accidentally shorting things. …but problems come from wrong assumptions: don’t expect that the fuse would secure anything from the spark from the initial connection. The fuse you would use for the ESC/Motor probably will have higher limit and slower break than the spark. Knowing the characteristics of the resistor would help to state YES or NO - but based on experience, XT90S should do the job.
R, J.
[quote=“GhettoFab.rictation, post:100, topic:5241, full:true”] may be smarter to run a bigger connecter[/quote]
What are your batteries’ C-rates? This tells you what the max current you should expect (and secure with a fuse). Even if your battery setup would be powerful, good to think about the other components - e.g. VESC’s current limits. If this is less, your fuse could go down and would not be necessary to use high-current rated connectors. For a single VESC an XT90 should be enough (even if you have heatsink and active cooling).
R, J.
18650’s, and vedder’s vesc rated 240amps burst and 50a continuous, input voltage rates 60v max. Yeah I figured it would be safe, but wondered if I could make it bullet proof and protect all of the investments haha 
I’ll have single 190 kv with a 110mm wheel and geared 15t 30t
Sounds like you’re going to have a ton of amp draw, and perhaps less than average acceleration.
Yes more of a cruiser not a racer, but the high torque motor will make up for it,top speed wanted I hit 35mph here in AZ on south mountain np
Good luck with your build! Just be careful of the huge current you’ll be pulling.
What do you mean he’s running 12s with a 15 30 ratio he’s gonna go fast as fuck.
Acceleration not sure depends on your weight
Thanks dude, yeah I’m getting mechanics done first and basic electronics before anything that requires tedious work this thread caught my eye. I will study more for sure!
Weight is 170, 6ft 3 in. Fit 170* lol
For sure he’ll be fast. Like 45+mph at full effiency, but the reduction is pretty minimal, and it’s a single motor, so I imagine (but definitely can’t say for sure) that acceleration will suffer.
Acceleration will be fine I think. Those motors Are tough
Yeah that’s what I read after reading rpm per volt! 
Please do a review and build log, when you get to it, I’d love to know how it turns out.
I will brotha I have chaka bara and psychotiller to thank I’ll include parts pictures and prices along with everything I’ve learned and finishing video, and a fellow in Poland for the 3d printed 30t and trial 36t for cheap
ugh. ruined my weekend plans.
I’ve had issues recently where I can ride for ~1 minute without abnormal behavior, and then randomly power will be reduced drastically. I can still brake, and the motor still runs but only if I get off. I make sure to plug in my XT90s quick and all the way every time. I had a direct bridge using solder wick. I have it setup to bridge the positive to the battery.
Not too sure what the issue is here.
Have you made sure the resistor in the connector is the right way around?
I’m not at home to check but I’m 99% sure it’s correct.
Why not just put the loop key on the negative side? Or the positive side…Either way polarity wouldn’t even be a concern. The only reason this was ever an issue is because wiring it like a plug instead of an interupt created the polarity issue.
Just cut one wire. Negative or positive. Doesnt matter which. Then solder both negative ends to the plug. Or both positives. Doesn’t matter.
That’s what 90% of us are doing
