Maytech Sensored Hub Motor

This is the link

I have to say they are OK, but not recommending to other member to buy. Mine at least have groves to avoid slippage for the urethane.

Main disadvantages:

  • heating up for long maximum speed run (30min of 25km avg run) almost 80 degree celcius
  • thin urethane
  • hub cap easily get scratched or damaged as it sits in the very outside and closes to the ground
  • my version vibrate at certain speed due to mechanical and or faulty construction issue
  • require special truck to mount it

For now I recommend @Hummie hub motor or Jacob hub motor and or wait for enertion ghost.

Im not sure if they would be any better than normal trucks for the health of hub motors.

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Jason who owns endless-sphere is doing hub motors on that truck because itā€™s ideal for the stress sensors he uses. No remote. Stress sensors in that baseplate.

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Just bought the new 90mm maytech. But effectively they seems to be pretty badly wired. Is there a simple way to arrange wires and magnet and improve the quality? As of today if I am correct there is no Jacobā€™s hub motor anymore on the marketā€¦ is that correct? Please confirm. thanks

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Jacobs hubs are still around. Check Alibaba, I sae them there recently. Also, @ralphy can sell you a pair.

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Do you have some pictures of the wiring? I have bought the same, for a pretty good price, but havenā€™t opened them yet!

Here are some photos of the internals on this Flickr album.

Thanks a lot! Although the wiring is partly really not well done, the magnets donā€™t look as bad as @Boca is suggesting. You have to keep in mind that they are pretty cheap! If you take into account what normal wheels cost, and a comparable motor, they are actually as cheap as it could getā€¦ I mean if thereā€™s space on the market for better motors, where are them?

hey IMO, after some ride, its good for flat cool short cruising ride ā€¦ once launched on the flat it sends well against, almost a bit like in geared. But I leave in pretty good uphill/downhill street and they clearely miss power, they hit so quickly, you now play a lot with the trigher, full trottle many time now so they cut many time ā€¦ I was thinking about to drill some holes on the external flabby ā€¦ the bearings are to change more regularly I guess ā€¦

Donā€™t even expect as fun as a single geared setup with them :blush: just cool short flat cruise is the best for it.

Can u do a quick tutorial on how you got these hubs on Ronin trucks exactly. Thanks.

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I just follow Kaspars Dambis tuto :blush:

The tuto :

On board

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Looks great. Can you share your vesc settings ? I wonder what kind of battery you are using, and what your battery max, motor max is as well as if you are riding in FOC or BLDC. Thanks.

Yes, all is around here if you want, on e-sk8.fr I set 900w per VESC, motor and battery max 25amps, -20amps motor min, -10 batt min, sensored bldc (it was Ackmaniac FWā€¦ dont remember with, vesc 4.10HW) I only ride FOC under my V6 ā€¦ I received FOCBOX last week, but for an other build.

Here it is 5 x 2s 5Ah 20c Lipo :

Actualy, I get the little Dual ESC 30A (75Amps brust) FOC, switch and receiver integraded (so I buy the mini remote too) Just to geave a try, it looks good under 100ā‚¬ for a dual for this little hub ā€¦ : ā€¦ Donā€™t take the time actualy, cause I was planing this under a cool flexy sweety long dropthrought deck according to the smooth ride of the hub :blush: ā€¦ sorry, itā€™s an other story

when you say low power and only good for flat coursesā€¦thatā€™s cause you motor and battery amp settings are super low. 120 motor amp each vesc and you will feel differently!! someone will tell you thatā€™s too high but for hubs I recommend it as long as your vesc is decent. especially if your motors are wound with fat wires not dental floss, but even dental floss wire is good just not as safe if you were to stall the motor at low speed and be having huge amperage floating around in the motor for a long time

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Thanks ! And true !! Wow 120amps :smile: for sure, should work better, some in france ride it with 60amps motor max and seams to be working good too ! I just donā€™t want to stresse it to much, and like you say and itā€™s my case, I need pretty much amps from start. The 1st 500m starting from home are full uphill (and a lot more around my country) I have to use a lot of my throttle ā€¦ and motor cut if I ask to much. And I appreciate to upgrade parameter more and more high little by little :smiley: Maybe 120 is a bit extrem, plus this motor got a huge Internal Resistance: 0.557ā€0.577 and really dental floss wire as you say ā€¦ I will give it a try for sure, plus I received FocBox :wink: But for now the question does not matter, since I also got this DualESC already pre-parameterized ā€¦

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What does it mean 0.4A idle current and Max. Current 22A? Isnā€™t it too low?

We already integrated some NTC into the motor, to test them with higher currents to see the temperature rise with certain currents. But I have to say that mine are wound differently (they did by asking), for lower kV. As long as you have enough voltage, there is no problem with top speed. But the lower resistance is quite a win regarding temperature. Itā€™s the resistance that causes the inefficiency, and higher voltage is the suitable solution :slight_smile: Maybe some day I have the results of these measurements. Iā€™m also playing with the thought of water-cooling them :sweat_smile:

Ok thanks for your return. There is an other rider riding them at 12s with vesc (it should be more parametrable than dualesc myatech). But yes they eat a lot of range !..

:frowning: awwmanā€¦ I wonder why Jason isnā€™t willing to fill the vacuum of hub motorsā€¦

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