Hope you have Better luck with that motor, than me and a Friend. We are both running the motor on vesc 6 and escape The noise is comming from the motor itself. Not loose magnets or anything else. Just a badly designed motor i’m afraid.
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Sounds like some semi-loose windings. You might be able to spot them with a toothpick if you open the motor…
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Trust me, iv’e spent hours looking at the magnets, and stator etc. To me it sounds like a timing / motor sync issue.
We have together 6 pcs of this motor, All brand new and all with the same Sound.
That is reasonably mental, carry on.
I did note the chart seems to indicate that this could do the magical ‘ton up’ with gearing/wheel changes 
Better get really good MC protection dude
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Don’t worry bro its really actual topic for me if this is happening. I think from your last videos looks like windings are loose and from vibration they make that sound. Did you tried to contact APS?
EDIT: on youtube found some more problem videos on this you can even see motor bell changing form…
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The QC of this motor is crappy in general. Even my cheap sk3 from hobbyking is made Better. Yes some of the windings is pretty darn loose. Do you think that epoxy could be used, og is it better to use something else.
@Kug3lis yes that video is my friends APS, with exactly same problem. @DK-Odense
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I will try to contact APS before buying them… Also I know only Leopard sensorless 8072 but its low on power ~2.7kW according to sheets @Nowind used it maybe he can tell more about them.
Did some AliExpress browsing and found this monstrosity 
That’s 8092
Found a person using it:
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Interesting project. I wonder how this board handles speedwobbles, with only one rear wheel
No idea but he had already some problems with that motor… So I guess not worth trying it out. By the way @Silverline have you tried contacting APS regarding problems? If so what did they said?
@Kug3lis… @DK-Odense is using two of these motors on his trampa board, without problems, with the rear aksel removed. Massive power : https://alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-motors/c80100-sensored-outrunner-brushless-motor-130kv-7000w/
No not yet… but we sure will. But i have cut the motor wires and soldered on bullets connecters, and JST PH for the sensors, so i dont think he will take them back. Thats why i want to find the problem 
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I am limited to length of motors because of TB218 hanger size 84mm is already a problem so thought that 8072 would be perfect fit. Maybe making custom hanger for like TB250 but that would be way to wide
EDIT: regarding that video there motor bell moves I also thinking maybe its bearings issues…
That’s what I was thinking about doing, making a custom 250mm TB hanger, but out of steel for added strength. I bet that would make it hold up just fine 
Based on what @Eboosted said in another thread, I started thinking about this noise… it sounds like a shitty guitar, or similar stringed instrument. What he said to describe the noise really got in my head, and when I took my problem motor apart for the millionth time, what I saw was confirmation of Eb’s statement (which I don’t recall precisely). What I saw was a motor with light dust on virtually all the windings except for certain spots, which were perfectly clean. I grabbed a toothpick, and sure as shit the clean windings were loose!! Makes sense that the ones that shake, also dust themselves off, lol. I wish I had photos of this, but oh well.
Anyway, an oral-syringe and some epoxy, plenty of paper towels, a couple q-tips and toothpicks may be all you need to fix or muffle the twang.
On a side note it appears that low quality motors, which might have loose windings, will likely have other deficiencies as well. Loose magnets, bad bearings, etc.
Point is, although I am a firm believer in that EVERYTHING-mechanical can be fixed, sometimes it’s just too frustrating/time consuming.
Edit: I meant to reply to @Silverline but whatever.
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So epoxy can handle the heat from the motor ?
What about PCB lack insted ?
The motors is new, but the top bearing is not as smooth like the one in the bottom ( 2 x 6800z bearing in both ends)
Another small update, finished PCB for RGBW leds in taillight I will be using SK6813 in whole project, like 2 strips embedded inside enclosure
Can’t decide which to pick IP65 or IP67 (One is glue coated and another is in silicone tube or etc)
Next in the queue is USB SK6813 multi channel controller 
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I guess then I will need to buy some high temp epoxy and new bearings
NSK or SKF
Only with one “Z”, the other side is open without metal shield, but i guess it dosn’t matter with both closed.
But pretty expensive, when 4 is needed for one motor :-/
Original is NSK
There are also cheaper one’s
10x19x5
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Bearings-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearings/c3_11/index.html
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+1 for the IP65 leds…unless you need to ride under water. The installation always looks more crisp with the lower profile and adhesive back.