Mark 48 | Landyachtz Evo 39" 2018 | FatBoy TB218 Drivetrain | Fatboy SolidCore WheelHubs | 6.5" Trampa | APS 8072S165kv 6kW | FatBoy HV ESC | 18S10P Panasonic PF

Amazing! That VESC I posted a few months back which was like a high voltage VESC 6, could also do 18s. Does yours max out at 18s or is it capable of more? Any plans of selling these on your site?

Yes, 18S is maximum described voltage but if you crazy and don’t care about the parts you could do maybe 19S but some IC will be next to their limits. Yes, they will be available to buy but first I will try them on my board and with few people if everything is alright then it will be available to buy, but I will need to finish my firmware which is at the moment pretty scarce on features…

Higher than 18S is hard to make as for e.g. Bidrectional current sense IC max common voltage is like 80V I could make bidirection from two unidirection IC which can go even higher but then I will need to double everything and space/cost not efficient. Plus who the hell needs more than 18S on longboard :smiley:

This is already crazy stuff…

image

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Who the hell need more than 12s really? :joy:

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This project is in all aspects first I guess :smiley: Like who has server running in their longboard :smiley:

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Have you considered what kv you should use? I was just looking at this link the other day and figuring it out for up to 18s.

So using his formula:

8570RPM / 75.6v = 113kv - 18s

Since APS does custom kv, you could request a kv as close to this as possible.

Using those formulas @chaka came up with is how we determine that 170kv is the ideal for 12s, 200kv for 10s, etc…

One thing I am curious about is whether you’re supposed to calculate this figuring your battery fully charged or discharged (Li-on 4.2 fully charged and 3.6 discharged). If you figure these using the discharged amount, 12s would be 198kv, which incidentally enough, is the highest kv you can run 12s before its erpm goes above 60,000 erpm…

Also, with 18s and 165kv your erpm would be 87,318. Obviously the VESC 4.12 Couldn’t go over 60k, and I heard the VESC 6 could go up to 100k, just curious if that worries you at all or have you got it all figured out??

Very excited to see this ESC come along! I’ve really been looking a lot into electric powered surf boards and similar things like that and I think those are the perfect application for an ESC that can run such high voltage since you have to run a decent sized prop very fast with a ton of resistance, so I think in that application, an ESC like this is a great idea!

Hope you have Better luck with that motor, than me and a Friend. We are both running the motor on vesc 6 and escape The noise is comming from the motor itself. Not loose magnets or anything else. Just a badly designed motor i’m afraid.

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Sounds like some semi-loose windings. You might be able to spot them with a toothpick if you open the motor…

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Trust me, iv’e spent hours looking at the magnets, and stator etc. To me it sounds like a timing / motor sync issue.

We have together 6 pcs of this motor, All brand new and all with the same Sound.

That is reasonably mental, carry on.

I did note the chart seems to indicate that this could do the magical ‘ton up’ with gearing/wheel changes :stopwatch:

Better get really good MC protection dude

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Sorry for hijacking the thread.

@patrocks

Could this make the Sound ?

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Don’t worry bro its really actual topic for me if this is happening. I think from your last videos looks like windings are loose and from vibration they make that sound. Did you tried to contact APS?

EDIT: on youtube found some more problem videos on this you can even see motor bell changing form…

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The QC of this motor is crappy in general. Even my cheap sk3 from hobbyking is made Better. Yes some of the windings is pretty darn loose. Do you think that epoxy could be used, og is it better to use something else.

@Kug3lis yes that video is my friends APS, with exactly same problem. @DK-Odense

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I will try to contact APS before buying them… Also I know only Leopard sensorless 8072 but its low on power ~2.7kW according to sheets @Nowind used it maybe he can tell more about them.

Did some AliExpress browsing and found this monstrosity :smiley:

image

That’s 8092 :smiley:

Found a person using it:

https://handymanjay.weebly.com/eboard-project.html

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Interesting project. I wonder how this board handles speedwobbles, with only one rear wheel

No idea but he had already some problems with that motor… So I guess not worth trying it out. By the way @Silverline have you tried contacting APS regarding problems? If so what did they said?

@Kug3lis@DK-Odense is using two of these motors on his trampa board, without problems, with the rear aksel removed. Massive power : https://alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-motors/c80100-sensored-outrunner-brushless-motor-130kv-7000w/

No not yet… but we sure will. But i have cut the motor wires and soldered on bullets connecters, and JST PH for the sensors, so i dont think he will take them back. Thats why i want to find the problem :slight_smile:

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I am limited to length of motors because of TB218 hanger size 84mm is already a problem so thought that 8072 would be perfect fit. Maybe making custom hanger for like TB250 :smiley: but that would be way to wide :smiley:

EDIT: regarding that video there motor bell moves I also thinking maybe its bearings issues…

That’s what I was thinking about doing, making a custom 250mm TB hanger, but out of steel for added strength. I bet that would make it hold up just fine :smile:

Based on what @Eboosted said in another thread, I started thinking about this noise… it sounds like a shitty guitar, or similar stringed instrument. What he said to describe the noise really got in my head, and when I took my problem motor apart for the millionth time, what I saw was confirmation of Eb’s statement (which I don’t recall precisely). What I saw was a motor with light dust on virtually all the windings except for certain spots, which were perfectly clean. I grabbed a toothpick, and sure as shit the clean windings were loose!! Makes sense that the ones that shake, also dust themselves off, lol. I wish I had photos of this, but oh well.

Anyway, an oral-syringe and some epoxy, plenty of paper towels, a couple q-tips and toothpicks may be all you need to fix or muffle the twang.

On a side note it appears that low quality motors, which might have loose windings, will likely have other deficiencies as well. Loose magnets, bad bearings, etc.

Point is, although I am a firm believer in that EVERYTHING-mechanical can be fixed, sometimes it’s just too frustrating/time consuming.

Edit: I meant to reply to @Silverline but whatever.

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So epoxy can handle the heat from the motor ?

What about PCB lack insted ?

The motors is new, but the top bearing is not as smooth like the one in the bottom ( 2 x 6800z bearing in both ends)